August 25, 2022
Riding the Rhine
Of scorched hills and cool waters.
August 25 Thursday 63 Kms
Up with the larks- pigeons in our case, we’re packed and ready to go by 8:00am- in time for a coffee and wifi on the terrace.
The lunchtime goal is Bingen, about 35 kilometres. After that we hope to reach Sankt Goar, another 30 kilometres further on. The ride starts with crossing the bridge at Mainz which gives beautiful views of the river and its traffic. The river cruises are still operating despite low water levels. The Main still looks high but the Rhine definitely looks depleted.
After a few kilometres of Rhine river views, the trail moves away to a less pleasant ambiance- traffic, noise. The route in the morning is quite a mixed bag with trails alongside trees, some beside motorways and others through farmland, beside vineyards and a section alongside some decorative allotments. Some allotments look to have been abandoned in the heat. Very few river views though, and no challenging climbs but growing heat.
At Bingen, it’s all change. While Hildegard of Bingen may have found heavenly inspiration here, a tub of cold yogurt is nirvana for us. In a shady courtyard in front of the tourist information office, we enjoy a welcome lunch and have a chat with some Queenslanders who spend part of their year in the area. This tourist office is to be recommended for its water supply and wonderful toilets- a scarce commodity so far.
After Bingen, the Romantic Rhine begins, and the bike path runs right alongside the river. The hillsides are covered in trees which look to be in autumn colours, but are probably scorched. We watch barges carrying liquid gas and other commodities forced to negotiate ever narrowing channels. They seem to be managing to skilfully find the deep water. The tourist cruise boats are still running though it’s difficult to tell how many passengers are aboard as only a few are visible. It also seems many are just short sightseeing cruises. Perhaps they’re inside enjoying the aircon.
At a number of spots along the river, swimmers are cooling off and sunbathing on sanded beaches and we spot a paddle boarder headed to the sea. The water looks green but reasonably clear. Some sections of the cycle path are sheltered from wind and here the heat feels intense. We use up most of our water supply.
At Sankt Goar we find a campground that lines the river bank directly in front of the Lorelei Rock. We are lured in like the legendary boatmen of old. In contrast to yesterday’s site it’s spacious, slightly shady and if it were not for the long line of camper vans would provide fantastic river views of barges negotiating the treacherous corner around the Lorelei rock. Better still, lining the path above are a number of small chalets providing shower and toilet. They include a power point which we use for charging our phones.
Barges continue to ply the river through the night and trains run along both sides of the river. We’re getting used to tenting but cramp comes when least expected and one of us woke from a nightmare, vocally. Eventually though we drift off no doubt dreaming of alluring Rhine maidens and dangerous rocks.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 115 km (71 miles)
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