August 28, 2022
Punderich to Klusserath
Riffs across the water.
August 28 Sunday
Punderich to Klusserath 72kms
Our campsite is so appealing with the river at our front door, and the vineyard covered hill opposite, that sweeps up to a mansion on top, that we’re late starters this morning. Brilliant breakfast too; made it to the bakery for rolls and croissants. Combined with muesli and the inevitable nectarine and yoghurt, eating sitting in the gentle, early morning sun is very pleasant.
Once on our way, we pick up the river trail again. Today we think we can make another 60 kilometres at least, though enjoying the ride’s the thing of course. We follow the river all day; it’s sunny and I use the solar panel to charge the phones. The metre long cable has been a godsend, often allowing me to plug in at campground basins and loop it over the top of my shower door with phone attached.
Traben-Trarbach is a spectacularly picturesque town which apparently made its wealth on the back of a wine barrel. It has some magnificent buildings and even a Bhudda Centre.
Being Sunday many cyclists are out. There are loads of ebikes, though on such a flat track they hardly seem necessary. In the case of some trippers who look to be pushing 80 they must be a boon though. Something to look forward to! In addition to cycling, wine tasting is the other major activity. Marquees and covered areas under trees are set up for the cycling tipster or should that be taster? And the river goes on; broad, with an almost luminous green algae near the bank. Is this bad for bird life? There seem to be plenty of swans and geese and black shags enjoying a dip. No humans as yet.
We lunch late at a picnic spot. This trail is pretty good for seats and shady spots and vineyards almost all the way. Toilets and drinking water, not so much, though with a keen eye we spot what is required.
Late afternoon we need camping. Ann’s Mapsme tells her there’s a spot at Klusserath. As we cycle on we round a bend and hear the unmistakable sound of the opening riff of ‘Take me home country road’ from a band playing across the water. Resisting is impossible and soon we’re belting out the words as we speed along. ‘…take me hoooome, country roooad…’
We find that the campground is on the other side of the river but there’s a bridge. Across we go- the only activity in sight is preparation for a wein fest and concert. But there, beyond is a conglomeration of what appears to be signs of camping. It is! We sign in and are given a dusty spot beneath the overhanging bar and sanitary facilities. Alles gut.
Soon after setting up a group of young chaps arrive. They resemble members of ‘The Young Ones’. They have heaps of gear- trailers, air beds and large tents. They seem to be discussing their coming academic year at uni and what subjects they should choose as they cook their pasta at the table next to us. There’s the cool dude, the hippy, the intellectual and the Jack of all trades who’s left to cook. They tell us that they’re headed for Koblenz. The daughters of another close camper are enjoying themselves enthusiastically shooting from toy guns at a small African boy who seems to be part of the family. They’re quite aggressive, but then so is he, and his German seems very loud and fluent.
The brass section of the concert a few fields away belts out its final offerings with gusto then quiet descends. Our little tent is a separate world where we read in the dark on kindles before sleep comes.
Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 316 km (196 miles)
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