Nancy

September 3, 2022 to September 4, 2022

Getting to know Nancy

September 3 Saturday

Breakfast is back to muesli and yoghurt and a less aggressive Ethiopian coffee which seems to work well with du lait frais - always hard to find in French supermarkets. Walk into the city to check mail at poste restante. Yes, while post offices have axed much, this quaint service still exists. Unfortunately our SIM cards haven’t arrived.

The city is quiet at this time of the day, nevertheless we notice French style in dress is still a winner. We reach Stanislaus Place - it’s a showpiece definitely, but is impressive. Stanislaus, former king of Poland was father in law to Louis V. and was responsible for the building of the ‘place’ named for him in the 18th century. There are gates in places that are wrought iron and enamelled in gold.

Saturday shoppers, visitors, tour groups- the area is steadily filling. We take a turn into the local park area and check out the eco market. Honey, soap, candles and yes basket weavers are all presenting their wares. And interesting addition is the young suited men who seem to be providing security. They greet us at each end of the market.

We look into the Cordeliers Chapel where are the tombs and effigies of the lords and ladies of Lorraine’s past.

After this, it’s back for lunch and a siesta. In the evening we really live it up with a visit to the local Leclerc. The pasta, mushrooms, lemon tart and rosé are worth the effort.

September 4 Sunday

On many occasions when travelling, we turn up to find museums closed because it’s the wrong day of the week or something disastrous has happened to close the building. This weekend though, we’ve struck the jackpot- first Sunday of the month- entry is gratuit! We decide we want to see the Beaux Arts Museé and the houses displaying art nouveau works.

We start the day by walking to the Ecole de Nancy.

This building houses absolutely the most amazing collection of art nouveau paintings, furniture, sculpture, ceramics and everyday objects. The carved and inlaid wood is perhaps the most astonishing. Some admittedly, like the massive wardrobe, would be hard to wake up to of a morning, but there’s no denying the skill involved in their creation. The living and bedroom areas are well catered for- I wonder what the kitchens or toilets and bathrooms of the era were like. The lead light glass is beautiful in its colours and execution too. Outside, the artist’s studio is a circular stone building with an glass umbrella shaped roof.

The garden outside is beautifully treed and shady, giving the impression of a wonderfully peaceful place to live.

After walking back to the centre, we visit the Beaux Arts Museé where there is a small collection of mainly realist and some impressionist paintings as well as a modern exhibition.

Because the second art nouveau house, Marjolie, was not open, we decide to cycle back late afternoon. This we do and find another less furnished house, but impressively styled. I try to bring our bikes inside the gates for security, but the young official will have none of it. ‘Non!’ She tells me firmly. I seem to recall a past president of France being keen on that word too. We park outside. When I leave she wishes me a cheery ‘Au revoir.’

Today's ride: 8 km (5 miles)
Total: 568 km (353 miles)

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