August 24, 2022
Leafy Nidda to Majestic Mainz
First day on the trail.
After an early breakfast and two cups of Ulli’s powerful coffee, we pack our bags, fit them to our bikes and are ready to go. It’s all so trouble free- and riding through traffic to the river is easily managed despite no practice run.
The day is cool but it doesn’t fool us- we know what’s coming. Ulli leads us down to the Nedda and sets us on the riverside path. We say our goodbyes- it’s been great meeting our Warmshowers guest again after a couple of years and he and his family have treated us royally as well as acquainting us with what makes Frankfurt tick.
From Frankfurt, we follow the leafy riverside path for a couple of hours. There are plenty of commuting cyclists so it’s obviously a popular trail. It’s pretty in amongst the trees despite the gathering heat and there are glimpses of flowing water now and then, although there are also stagnant ponds here and there too.
We come across a swimming pool surrounded by grand old trees and lawn. We’re strongly tempted to stop for a dip but we’re keen to beat the heat . The route skirts a vast industrial complex that has been painted in happy colours of green and blue, perhaps to reassure the public that nothing sinister is being created within. The fenced off expanse takes some time to circumnavigate and at the end of it a small township has a children’s playground and park. Finding a shady seat we stop to lunch on the sandwiches Ann has put together from what was in Ulli’s larder.
After this the countryside opens out and there is little shade on the trail. A couple of long sections are directly beneath the Frankfurt airport flight path and we are buzzed by several of Lufthansa’s finest. These sections are all the hotter for running along a raised bank.
The Nedda eventually reaches its confluence with the Main River - it’s a vast expanse of water and doesn’t look particularly diminished by drought to me. Through the trees at one point I spot a chap thrashing about in the water- he is swimming - to my relief. After following the Main for some distance, we realise that we have now reached the mighty Rhine and also the city of Mainz.
It appearance with its massive multi domed Dom looks dramatic from the our side of the river.
We’ve been following the R3 signs for some time and they finally lead us to the camping ground, directly across from the city. A few square feet of dusty ground sets us back 24euros- cash only. We also buy two bottles of ice cold apple juice - nectar of the gods! The showers are good too so who’s complaining? Unfortunately they can’t be made cold, which is what we really want.
Once our tent’s up we take a quick trip across the river for supplies. The city centre has been pedestrianised and very is civilised. If the traffic along the periphery is anything to go by, better to keep them out. Mainz famous son Gutenberg, took out a loan in 1448 and set up his printing workshop and not only went on to print lots including his 42 line bible but did so in beautiful fonts.
On our return to our tent, we find that the number of cyclists with tents has multiplied. It may be that the 9 euro, go anywhere in Deutschland train fare is encouraging rampant holiday travel or it could just be that it’s Germany on holiday. And they keep arriving. I guess it is their country. Your average cycling tent occupies very little space. Soon it’s like Glastonbury, without the mud thankfully.
After a healthy meal of potatoes and a good deal of lettuce, we do a passaggio along the riverbank. Mainz must have looked pretty impressive from a distance in the old days, with its watercraft and the dominance of its domes and towers.
People are still arriving and we drift off to the happy tapping of tent pegs.
Today's ride: 52 km (32 miles)
Total: 52 km (32 miles)
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