September 9, 2022
Gray to St Jean de Losne.
Windy loops.
Gravy to St Jean de Losne.
Windy Loops
9th September Friday
78 Kilometres
The Fer Cheval does a pleasant continental breakfast in their glassed in expansive dining room. One does miss the muesli a little but I suspect it has the status of birdseed in some parts of France. Our tray though, has coffee, orange juice, a huge croissant and, yes, baguette and jam.
Out of town, past the long steps descending to the river- this place was, in the days of busy river traffic, rocking- water sports and jousting are also mentioned on the information board.
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After a spell along the river we’re then on to the D976 which is quiet and rural. We now have lots of farming vistas, hedge rows and forêt communale. We’re back onto the river at Pontailler sur Saone and at Maxilly sur Saone we come across the Canal entre Champagne et Bourgogne. We stay on the road a little longer and avoid a loop in the river.
We’re trying to decide whether to head for Dijon from Lamarche sur Soane or go down to St Jean de Losne and head in on the canal. In the end we choose the latter course because there’s camping at St Jean and the canal looks like a straight line in.
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The wind builds in the afternoon but we’re reasonably energised. At Auxonne signs say 20kms to St Jean. The cycle route though, seems to do some long doglegs if the wind direction is to be believed. We also see a D road sign indicating 10km to St Jean but opt for the cycle route despite it being circuitous and away from the river through new build hamlets and farming areas.
Finally St Jean! We went through here on Eurovelo 6 in 2016 when we watched dragon boat racing across the water. At the campground we are given a hedged lot and get our tent up in time for the late afternoon thunderstorm which we read and sleep through. By 7:00 we’re off to the campground marquee restaurant for the plat de jour- pork ribs, pommes de terre and courgette gratin and salads. Delicious! Desert is a zingy lemon tart and poire tart. The place is full and keeps the two staff moving. Then it’s back to Marmot for a sleep.
Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 915 km (568 miles)
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