September 14, 2022
Fontenay Abbey
Who wouldn’t want to be a monk here?
September 14 Wednesday 17kms
Fontenay Abbey.
Who wouldn’t want to be a monk here?
Our inner tent is dry after a rainy night. There’s a bit of a soggy feeling in the air but the sky is clearing. We take our coffee to the weefee area and catch up for a while. We farewell Jean here as he heads north and back to Paris.
We then find the directions from Montbard to Fontenay Abbey - it’s on a small D road and then an even smaller D road. It feels strange riding without a full load, but it’s a short distance and there down a green, tree lined drive are the honey coloured walls of the abbey. It’s a beautiful setting- who wouldn’t want to be a monk here? The morning is hotting up and it’s blazing sunshine as we arrive.
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In private ownership for a long time, the abbey was originally built on swamp land and was cleared by Cistercian monks who wished to live lives more in keeping with the ideals of St Benedict. As part of this rule, monks had to be poor and live a simple life. The abbey suffered destruction in the Hundred Years War and dechristianisation also after the French Revolution. After its life as an abbey it was used as a paper mill, but in 1820 it went into private ownership and has been restored and maintained by the same family since then.
The Romanesque style of the church is striking in its simplicity. The tomb carvings of former aristocracy are interesting for their inclusion of dog images.
The other buildings of interest are the forge where the stream operated a massive hammer for beating out iron ore into tools and implements. The dormitory has an impressive beamed roof of chestnut wood. Outside, the manicured lawns and gardens create a haven of peace which even the one bus tour cannot destroy.
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We lunch in the sun, before heading back. By the time dinner is cooked clouds have gathered and rain is steadily dropping. We eat in our tent and strategise how we will wash dishes, wash ourselves and crawl into our sleeping bags. All this we manage to the growing intensity of the precipitation from above.
Today's ride: 17 km (11 miles)
Total: 1,091 km (678 miles)
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