September 16, 2022
Beaune to St Boil
Wheeling through the vines.
The proximity of our room to our bikes makes luggage handling very easy- Ann just passes the bags out the window to me. Soon bikes are loaded and we’re looking for the green sign to La Voie des Vignes.
Once found, we’re through the entrance and cycling along the small path among rows of vines which stretch away towards the horizon. We occasionally meet other cyclists, and see groups of tasters. The tourists seem mainly Dutch, and French with a few Americans who may have come from a river cruiser. The ride is interspersed with small villages like Meursault where we stop for coffee. Apparently a French comedy movie was made here in a fictitious restaurant. The roof tiles of the nearby church glisten, yellow and green in the morning sun.
Once we reach a slight peak, it’s downhill to Santenay. Here we pick up the canal route to Chagny. We cycled here it eight years ago on Eurovelo 6, but I don’t recognise anything particularly familiar. At Chagny we lunch and decide that instead of following the canal path to Chalon sur Saône, we’ll take the straight as a die D981 to Givry. So, lights flashing, this we do. Traffic is moderate but considerate and soon we’re climbing the last hill before Givry.
There are even one or two cyclists. The comforting thing in France is that no matter how isolated you might feel, or how lost you are, you always see another cyclist en route, to reassure you that you’re not alone in the world doing this crazy thing.
At Givry, a pretty town, we stop outside La Poste. Ann reads out the information panels describing the Liberation of Givry in September 1944.
On asking an employee exiting, the way to the route, he says those magic words - suivez -moi! And we do! And are soon enjoying the most amazing Voie verte - straight and sealed and wonderful views. It’s an old train track so the gradients are easy. Not that we’re lazy!
Since there is camping at St Boil, that’s where we go and soon find the campground just off the route. Once we’ve got our tent up and showered , we’re off for fine dining. It’s amazing that this seemingly hidden away campground has a following of so many dedicated clientele.
The maître takes our order for beef burgers ( medium rare) and salad and a vin ordinaire. The vin is ordinaire but beef burgers excellent. We’re pleased he got to us before a large group of his friends and admirers arrive because he embarks on a protracted session of jokes, laughter and general bonhomie that leaves the diners behind us hurumphing slightly. Dining over, we wrap up warm in our tent as the night is nippy.
Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 1,170 km (727 miles)
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