May 26, 2022
Day 19: Lava Hot Springs to Pocatello
I got on the road at 9:30. The sky was blue and the temperature was warmer than most days of this tour have been at noon.
I followed Main Street out of Lava Hot Springs. It stays across the river from busy US 30. But after 3 miles I had to get on US 30 for 9 miles to the Old Highway 91 turnoff. Fortunately it has a wide paved shoulder and is mostly downhill.
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I enjoyed the mountain views all around. I'm out of the Great Basin but still surrounded by mountains. It still looks like the Great Basin.
I came into Pocatello on Old Highway 91 which is across the river from I-84. Low traffic, with nice views looking down on the Portneuf river and a miles-long basalt cliff across the river.
The basalt cliffs continue into the city of Pocatello, with several city parks among the cliffs.
My first stop in Pocatello was at the Museum of Clean. I knew about it in advance and wanted to see it because it seems so extremely Mormon. Only Mormons would have a museum about cleaning methods. The Museum of Clean is much bigger than I expected. It obviously attracts school field trips.
The central city of Pocatello is split in half by a huge rail switching yard. It probably made sense when most passengers and freight arrived by train. But now it's kind of a Berlin Wall that splits the city in half.
The Union Pacific passenger station is long closed. The adjacent bus station is also long closed. It's now city offices. Don't know if the Greyhound neon sign still lights up.
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I enjoyed exploring downtown Pocatello. The Main Street is mostly old buildings and seems to be doing okay. It hasn't been killed by suburban shopping malls.
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Downtown has a big empty lot where the Chief Theatre once stood. The theatre opened in 1938 and closed in 1983. In 1993 it was being renovated when it was gutted by a fire. All that remains now is the sign and a mosaic in the sidewalk.
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After the tour I learned that the city of Pocatello is named after a revered Northern Shoshone chief who lived from 1815-1884.
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The Purpose building really stands out in downtown Pocatello. I like the leaded glass in the windows of the middle two floors. I wonder if the stained glass P referred to Pocatello at first.
Downtown Pocatello looks like it would be a charming place to spend the night, but my motel is miles away on the north side of town.
After exploring downtown I pedaled west a short distance to ride the bike trail along the Portneuf river. It was pleasant but the views aren't exactly spectacular along the channelized river.
My final stop in Pocatello is the Pocatello Temple which is about 5 miles northeast of downtown, up a big hill. The final big hill climb of the tour. Pocatello Temple is the newest temple I saw. It was dedicated on November 7, 2021. The temple was still under construction when I planned this tour last year.
Pocatello Temple resembles most of the other new temples. Traditional design, somewhat boxy. Small windows. Kind of dull and boring compared to the last temples I saw in Logan and Brigham City.
A group was exiting the temple, probably from a wedding. One person offered to take photo of me. My bike was parked across the parking lot, so the bike isn't in the photo. The photo turned out blurry.
From Pocatello Temple it was downhill all the way to the Best Western motel. The motel is huge, but I wasn't impressed with my $126 "basic" room. It's very small and has no fridge or microwave. Breakfast better be good. Super 8 across the street was much cheaper and is probably just as good.
I celebrated the end of the tour with a fancy halibut dinner and 3 beers. I was asleep at 8 PM, but woke up every time the extremely loud A/C came on. I eventually turned the A/C off and opened the window instead. I do not recommend the $126 "basic" rooms at Best Western in Pocatello.
Other than the crappy but expensive motel room, it was a good day. High of 84F in Pocatello, which was warmer than predicted. I had a tailwind going north, which was most of the time.
The bike trip still isn't finished. Tomorrow morning I pedal to the Pocatello Airport to pick up a rental car.
Distance: 47.6 mi. (71.2 km)
Average Speed: 10.7 mph (17.1 km/h)
Ascent/Descent: +1663/-1869 ft. (+507/-570 m)
Miles 652-697 on the route map
Today's ride: 48 miles (77 km)
Total: 781 miles (1,257 km)
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