June 1, 2024
Back on the TransAm - Charlottesville to Afton
Another perfect day on the road. Temps in the 60s, low humidity, sunny skies.
After laying waste to the hotel breakfast, I headed into downtown Charlottesville and re-joined the TransAm.
The route went west toward the Blue Ridge on picture postcard country roads. There were plenty of climbs as the route toyed with the eastern side of the ridge.
I was warned that there is no food at today’s destination in Afton, so I stocked up at a country store in White Hall. At noon I diverted to Crozet where I lunched on a burger and fries. The large fries could have fed four people. I surrendered half way through the pile.
More hills and a rather dramatic uphill switchback came next. After I crossed I-64 the ride up the ridge began. It was tough. I had to stop twice to get my heart rate under control. The second time I was on a steep section so I pushed my bike 100 yards to a flat spot. A half mile later I was at the Cookie Lady’s house in Afton.
June Curry saw some bike tourists slogging Afton Mountain Road past her house on a hot summer day in 1976 and offered them water. Day after day the Bikecentennial riders came by. Eventually she caught on and started giving out cookies. She died about 12 years ago but her house is now a bike hostel of sorts. Actually it’s more like a shrine to the TransAm.
I’m here with Greg Parker, an eastbound TransAm rider. He hooked me up with a Warmshowers host for tomorrow and warned me of vicious dogs in Eastern Kentucky.
A family of three is just arriving to fill out the rest of the rooms tonight.
The house is directly across the road from the Blue Ridge Tunnel, so I went for a three-mile hike to check it out. It’s not particularly bike friendly but it’s so cool inside that it feels like a shower on a hot day.
Tomorrow I climb up to the Blue Ridge Parkway. It’s sure to be challenging but I get a legendary descent on the far side.
Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 397 miles (639 km)
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