Jerez de la Frontera

May 12, 2024

Giddy Up!

Today, we inched closer to the start of our cycle tour by hopping the train from Seville to Jerez de la Frontera. The train I chose is called the Media Distancia, still fast at about 115kmh, because you can take your bicycle on the train. Now, if only the staff at the train station knew that! I bought the tickets online last night and managed to find the last two available at the chosen timeslot. It meant we had seats in different cars, but we were fine with that.

We had plenty of time before the 11:05 departure and, now that we knew our way around the city, it only took a few minutes to ride to the station. I asked David to wander in to the Renfe office to check that the bikes could go on the train and, when he hadn’t returned 40 minutes later, I was on edge. I thought it would be a simple in and out. A quick text message confirmed he was still in the Renfe office and that the question had really challenged them. Actually, their first response was ‘no, it is not possible’. Same for the second and third answers. All the staff concurred. David persisted and then the discussions and phone calls ensued. When it was all said and done, he emerged with two 3€ tickets for the bikes.

We almost laughed when we descended to the platform and found the train with the bike symbol on it. And inside the train? Hangers for bikes and more spaces for large luggage than I have ever seen on a train. People were boarding with large strollers and lawn chairs, headed for a day at the beach in Cadiz. We rolled the bikes in, took the paniers off and hung them up on the hooks, then found our seats in the respective cars.

The lesson learned? Had we not asked the question in the first place, we would have got on the train without paying for the bikes. Maybe it’s best to wing it next time.

Horse Town

The ‘giddy up’ reference above is a nod to Jerez as the place that the Andalusian horse was bred, back in the 17th century. Today, it is the home of the Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art. There are daily performances where you can see the horses dance to traditional music and learn how this art form came to be in 1973.

To really immerse yourself in Andalusian horse culture, you would do well to buy tickets to the Feria del Caballo, the week-long Horse fair held every May. In fact, that took place last week. In any case, they are a beautiful, athletic horse.

Andalusian horse (stock photo from www.visit-andalucia.com)

I have experienced some internet issues that prevented me from finishing the Seville journal in the normal time so I am going to do a photo dump here in the name of keeping up. Without further a-do, here are the day’s photos.

Watching the arrivals/departures board at the Seville train station.

Monument to Primo de Rivera in the Plaza de Arenal. He was a Spanish dictator from 1923 till 1930, bought in power in a coup d’etat. He thereby proceeded to suspend the 1876 constitution and establish martial law.

Fundador is a Spanish brandy and wine company founded in 1730, making it the oldest winery in Jerez and the fifth oldest winery in Spain.

Ceramic tile on the side of the Fundador building. Bull fighting is still practised in Jerez.

A reminder that Jerez is very famous for its sherry.

Just another beautiful building in Jerez.

David’s pasta, stuffed with pear, gorgonzola and mushroom.

Tomorrow, we finally start riding. It’s been eleven days since our last ride, besides the 25k meander in Seville, and it feels like it’s been weeks!

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Barbara HarrisonWe didn’t make it to Jerez, it looks like it should be on our list for next time.
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3 months ago

Scott AndersonGlad you made the train. I don’t think I’d wing it though, unless you’re really stuck and hoping to get lucky. If you know when you’re planning a trip you can book bike space on MD trains, if available, through the Renfre app. It’s not obvious though, because the bike add on option doesn’t show-up until you’re in the process of checking out and are entering payment information. If you get there and there’s no remaining space available, it will say so.
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3 months ago

Joy DavisSo great to see your pictures! We were at the Feria last week for a couple of days and loved the horses, flamenco, food and of course the clothing - definitely a party!
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3 months ago