June 29, 2017
Pequot Lakes, Minnesota to Little Falls, Minnesota: In The Groove
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Today while eating lunch in Crow Wing State Park we had a Minnesota DNR ranger stop and shoot the breeze with us. He's been a lifer in that service and loves to talk to people who use the services the state provides. We told him we were unreservedly in love with the state bicycle trail system and gave him major Kudos to the state for its forsight in building paved bike trails. Margaret also remarked that it was pretty cool that the bikers and snowmobile crowd were working together to make the trails happen because we had seen signs stating that in the winter snowmobiles are allowed on the bike trails.
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He smiled a little smile and said characterizing the bikers and snowmobilers as "working together" might be putting a little too much Shine on it. He shared some experiences of his many years in the DNR and state Parks and Recreation department when it comes to providing access to the many constituents who, spending on their activity of interest, are clumped together in "User Groups.". The short version is this: The bicyclists want their paved trails, but the snowmobilers want to use those too, the ATV crowd also thinks they should have access to those paved trails AND the snowmobile trails AND any damn where else they please, but the equistrians also want to ride their horses on all of those but not with any bikes or machines that might spook their horses, while the mountain bike crowd wants access to the Jeep off-road trails but the Jeepers can't stand anyone in Lycra and the fat tire snow bikers want access to the same trails as the cross-country skiers but the skiers don't want ANYONE, REPEAT ANYONE boogering up their groomed trails and the dog owners want to walk their dog anywhere they want but the runners don't want any animals out there that might attack them.
So he laughed and said, yeah, we'd love it if the "User Groups" worked together but its not quite that easy. He was a great guy who truly loved to see people out accessing the outdoors but wow, it does get complicated satisfying everyone out there.
Thinking about all those "User Groups" got me to musing on all various activities people pursue outdoors, all the gear that is associated with each, and the huge variety of personalities that gravitate to them. I mean, I have zero interest in ATV'ing, but as I get older I'm pretty much cool with anything that gets people outside. But you know that each of the "tribes" that takes part in those activities has a certain set of behaviors that are perceived as "cool" or perhaps even a little "sexy" if I dare say. What is amazingly cool in one tribe will be seen as a head shaking embarrassment in another. For example, I would state with supreme confidence that whatever passes as "cool" and attractive in the road biking tribe will be viewed (at best) as dorkish and probably pathetic by the ATV and Jeep crowd. It would be akin to a Ruffed Grouse putting on its absolute "hottest" mating display for the benefit of an alligator. The alligator would be like ... "You know, I'm going to eat you now just to put you out of your embarrassing misery. I mean, I was going to eat you anyway, but this is really for your own good." So many people out there doing their thing in the great outdoors but their Venn diagrams simply do not overlap.
Today was a peak day, and for the first time Margaret and I agreed that we felt totally in a groove. Today was our 10th consecutive day of riding, and we are both physically and psychologically feeling perfectly in the groove. It took longer than expected but when the coin drops you can feel it, and today was the day. It probably helped that we had a steady tailwind propelling us all day.
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Last night's motel had a big meeting room where could stow our bikes. It was like having a private, bike-specific garage for us. At the end of yesterday's ride I had a soft front tire with 10 miles to go and I changed the tube in the comfort of the "garage." We also cleaned up and lubed the bike chains. It was a deluxe spot to do bike maintenance.
Off we went, and 10 miles down the Paul Bunyan Trail we came to a screeching halt in the town of Nisswa. Why? Because there was a tiny trail-side open air shop advertising "Mini-Donuts." You do not pass up mini-donuts on a bike tour. Wondrously, they were freshly deep fried upon ordering and sprinkled with a sugar and cinnamon mixture. Completely healthy, I guarantee it. The owner sat with us at a picnic table and we all shot the breeze. He mentioned that there was a "turtle race" every Wednesday in Nisswa and that the race area was in a nearbye parking lot. We promised we'd check it out and seeing it made us wish we'd been there for the races. Then we were off and running again.
Near Brainerd I knew that somewhere out there was a Starbucks. MMMmmmm, for a fresh Americano. Damn the Fates! It was like seeking the lost city of Eldorado. The Starbucks app said it was a mile past the gigantic sprawling mall area Brainerd had allowed to spawn on the edge of town (a' la Fergus Falls). We agreed navigating the multi-tentacled streets and swarming autos common to those mall-sprawl areas wasn't worth it. Saddened, we soldiered on.
Outside Brainerd the ACA map showed two novel symbols on the route. There were two circular curlicues side by side, the meaning of which we could not fathom. Two huge roundabouts? They looked like Mickey Mouse ears writ large. In truth they were two bicycle cloverleafs to get to, and from, opposite sides of the Mississippi River to cross a bridge. See the pictures. It doesn't take much to excite you on a bike tour.
Today's ending point was Little Falls, Minnesota where Charles Lindbergh was born and raised. On the way there we passed by Fort Ripley where the Minnesota State Veterans Cemetary is located. There is also an active military installation. Again, see the pictures.
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Part of today's route placed us (unavoidably) on the ample shoulder of a very busy state highway. Cars and trucks were roaring by about 65 mph, but we had a six foot shoulder and after some recalibrating we were able to settle in and accept that as the new normal for 7 miles.
When we arrived at our motel after 65 miles Marg stated, "I could have done 100 today." Agreed! It was a day to ride. Again, In The Groove. We had so much energy left we walked into town (about 1.5 miles) and poked around. We found a Chinese food place to eat, and realized it was an all-you-can-eat buffet, $9 per person. Oh my, they lost money on us! I ate two HEAPING platefuls, with a third for desert. For her, Margaret ate like a longshoreman, with two big plates. Ohmygosh it was good. We walked home, and after another hour I wandered over to the nearbye Perkins and had a piece of French Silk pie, ala mode, with a cold glass of milk.
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The next three days we are taking it easy so we can stop at two special places on this route. One is Alice's Attic again, but then at The Adventure Cycling Bunkhouse, another bike touring legend. We'll leave that as a teaser right now. There is a decent chance we may not be able to update the journal until the end of the ride because of tough access to wifi, so don't worry if you see no updates for a bit. Please do check back and thanks for reading everyone!
Today's ride: 65 miles (105 km)
Total: 584 miles (940 km)
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