The overnight rains came, but the Neosha River did not overflow it banks, the middle school remained dry, and biker evacuation was not necessary. All of today’s meals were included in the registration fee, so we headed back to the Hays House for the breakfast buffet – a fairly typical Midwest fare of scrambled eggs, hash browns and biscuits & gravy. There was still a bit of drizzle so we lingered a bit at breakfast chatting with some of the other riders before setting out to explore some of the sights of Council Grove.
Located on the Santa Fe trail, the town was named for a council of Osage Indians and representatives of the U.S. government that met here in 1825 and reached an agreement to allow wagon trains to pass through on their way west. The right of way through the Osage Nation, purchased for the price of $800, became known as the Santa Fe Trail. Council Grove was one of the most important stops along the trail – and the last outpost for another 600 miles. Interestingly, General George A Custer and the 7th Cavalry Regiment camped in Council Grove in 1867. Custer was so enamored with the area that he bought 120 acres of farmland, which was to have been his retirement home. That is, until 1876 when he met his death at the hands of Lakota Sioux and Cheyenne warriors at the Battle of the Little Bighorn. A handful of the landmarks/monuments commemorating some of the significant events in the town’s history is depicted below.
The Neosha River stayed in its banks, but the Riverwalk was closed
The remaining trunk of the Post Office Oak, which died after being struck by lightening in 1990. The tree served as an unofficial post office as travelers left messages could leave messages in caches located at the tree's base.
Guardian of the Grove - a bronze statue of a member of the Kaw (Kanza) Indian Tribe. Kansas took its name from the Kanza Indians, translated as "people of the south winds"
Today’s ride was a fairly short out and back to Cottonwood Falls, taking us through the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve. It was a thoroughly delightful day – with light winds heading south and a noticeable tail wind on the way home. As I rode through this open landscape of green prairie and blue sky I couldn’t help but imagine the lives of past inhabitants, travelers and settlers – of their conflicts and hardships. The time to contemplate while all senses are immersed within a slowly moving landscape is one of the indescribable enchantments of cycle touring. Here, in this vast prairie, I was reminded of the American idea of Manifest Destiny and its consequences in today’s culture. Seeking to know more, I will add William Least Heat Moon’s PrairyErth: A Deep Map to my reading list, a book which explores the landscape, history and people of Chase County and the Flint Hills.
About 2 miles north of Cottonwood Falls we stopped at the Tallgrass Prairie National Preserve Visitor Center. Tallgrass prairie once covered 170 million acres in North America – today less than 4% remains, mostly in the Flint Hills of Kansas. The ~11,000 acre preserve was created in 1996 as a public/private partnership for preservation of the tallgrass prairie ecosystem. As one might expect, the visitor center has a number of displays and a short movie detailing the history and geology of the tallgrass prairie, its flora and fauna, as well as past and current Native American and ranching activities in the area. There are 40 miles of hiking trails through the preserve from which you reach a scenic overlook and perhaps encounter the resident buffalo herd. Regrettably, I did not have time for an extended exploration of the preserve on this trip but would like to return someday soon.
The historic range of the prairie in North America. The historic tallgrass prairie is designated by in bright green, with the dark maroon showing the existing remnant tallgrass prairie. Historic ranges of short grass and mixed grass prairie are indicated in yellow and dark green, respectively.
Back on the bike, we passed through the small town of Strong City and crossed the raging Cottonwood River into Cottonwood Falls. As we turned onto Broadway, the main street of Cottonwood Falls, we were met by an expanse of brick that ended at the steps of the Chase County Court House. The historic building , constructed from the native limestone and completed in 1873, is the oldest operating courthouse in the Midwest. The Courthouse is normally closed on Sunday, but the ride organizers had made arrangements for it to be open to us until 12:30. Our arranged lunch at Keller Feed and Wine was served until 12:30, meaning we only had one hour to eat and tour the courthouse. We opted for lunch first, then hightailed it to the courthouse where we were welcomed by the lovely docent who said she would stay open as long as cyclists wanted to visit. Hallways on the main floor are covered with historic photographs of Cottonwood Falls and the surrounding area, including the nearby monument where Knute Rockne died in a plane crash. A massive spiral staircase with a black walnut balustrade hand-cut from local trees led up to the courtroom, still in use today. Beyond the courtroom lay the old jail, which was in use until the 1970s and, like many jails, is festooned with names of former occupants. A recessed oval window on the 3rd floor overlooks Broadway and the lush green countryside surrounding the town.
Old gas station in Strong City - once abandoned it has recently served as a workshop for restoring hot rods
The ride organizers had provided gravel routes for each day’s ride, and I considered returning to Council Grove on gravel route. It would be fun to take a different route back and channel the spirit of Dirty Kanza, an iconic gravel ride which is being held in Emporia next week. However, I was dissuaded by the muddy gravel along the roads we had passed and the fact that I would be alone and unsupported. I later learned that parts of the gravel route were flooded and impassable, and was glad that I had opted for the paved option. It was a beautiful ride back to Council Grove - a sweet tailwind and sunny skies. We arrived in plenty of time to enjoy a root beer float at the local Dairy Queen. After dinner, I joined a small group discussion on unsupported bike touring and referred a bunch of nice folk interested in touring to cycleblaze.com. Wound up but tired from another great day, I retreated to my mezzanine space and barely settled in my sleeping bag before the lights went out.
Wanting the road on the right, but fearing what's down the road on the left, I opted for pavement
