Svasand to Hatlestrand

July 13, 2023

This was a day of ups and downs, geographical, meteorological and emotional.

These roads along the fjords are certainly not flat; today we climbed 660m up the hills to get a view, then down to the water's edge, then the same again and again. The forecast was for 60 to 70% chance of rain so we had to make the most of the time when it wasn't raining.

The day started on a high, climbing out of the tent at what we have rated our best wild campsite yet. We were tempted to take our breakfast onto the rock to admire the dramatic clouds and view, but decided to capitalize on the weather window to pick some wild blueberries to garnish our granola, take down a dry tent and pack up before the inevitable rain. We had been invited for coffee by people we had met the day before, so once on the road we kept a good pace climbing high over a ridge then down to Jondal where the sun was shining and caught the 10:20 ferry. We were in good sprits and looking forward to our coffee date when we would hopefully learn more about life in Norway. Then, half way across the fjord a light rain started and continued ever more heavily for the hour ride to Strandebarm. This was a low point.

We arrived soaking wet, half expecting our hosts to not answer the door, but instead they saw us coming and called out to make sure we went to the right house. After putting the bikes in the garage to drip, Regnhild and Stig gave us towels, warm slippers and a rack to dry the rain gear. They are retired, enjoy cycling and exceptionally hospitable. We ate a huge plate of waffles topped with Brunost, a brown, sweet cheese and home-made jam, as well as an apple crumble and masses of coffee. We chatted about Norwegian and Canadian families, food, history, government, fish farming, church and, of course, cycling. Time flew by until, from the huge windows overlooking the water, we could see the rain had stopped and it was time for us to say farewell. Meeting people such as these is such a treat and a memorable part of any tour. Thank-you Regnhild and Stig for inviting us into your home and sharing a part of your lives with us.

From that high point we pedalled off, warm and full, ready to go for miles, but just around the first bay the rain intensified and we dashed for shelter at an abandoned gas station. This pattern continued for the afternoon but this is why we carried rain gear for two months through hot, sunny France and when the clouds let up we were treated to impressive views along the fjord. The weather could have been better but still we were glad to be riding through the dense coastal forests and quiet countryside with sheep in the lush, green fields. Ann even spotted an abundant raspberry patch as we took refuge in a bus shelter, so we picked a cup for tomorrow's breakfast. Indeed, the fact that along this thinly populated stretch of single lane road there are busses and covered shelters, says so much about this country's commitment to public transport...and climate.

By 6pm, the combination of rain, lateness and not much fuel in the camp stove had us thinking we would eat at a warm, dry restaurant in the next town and not cook at camp. Good idea, but towns are few and far between and the only possible one had no restaurant or cafe, only a small grocery store with pre-made hamburgers that tasted like they had been sitting in that warming tray all day. Thank goodness for Norwegian chocolate as we ate a huge bar for dessert.

Google maps showed no campgrounds, hotels, or lodging of any kind so after another half hour in a light rain, we found a spot of flat, well-drained ground, sheltered from the prevailing wind and utterly devoid of charm; our worst wild campsite yet. Still, we were grateful to crawl into a dry tent and fall asleep, grateful that, once again, today the high points vastly outweighed the low.

We had seen this at breakfast buffets, but had not been adventurous enough to try it. It is a sweet, firm, processed cheese that is yummy on waffles.

Apple strudel. I can't believe we ate the whole thing!

Sitting out a rain shower; not so comfortable but dry.

Note the eco roof. These shelters were our friends today. Some are big enough to bring the bikes in too.

Increasing "auto-besity" makes it even harder for big SUVs to pass on these one lane roads

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Michael HutchingSo very impressed with your adventurous spirit, the beautiful photographs and the wonderful personal insights and encounters.
Ride on! Michael & Ann Hutching.
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1 year ago

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 3,386 km (2,103 miles)

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