Ste Maries to Istres via Camargue

May 8, 2023

Oops. Missed putting in the text for the first posting. It's better when you have the full story.

Many years ago our family travelled with friends to Mt Washington to camp and climb the mountain. Our kids, Rob and Kathleen were about 12 and 10 at the time. We started off under sunny skies, but weather in the mountains can change quickly, so by the time we were approaching the steep part of Tuckerman's Ravine we were in cloud and drizzle. Spirits were flagging and some of our party had already turned back when we met a group of hearty, New England college girls coming down the trail. Ann asked "How are conditions further up?" The reply: "It's brutally cold, the rain turns to sleet, the winds are howling and the trail is slippery - but it is the most amazing experience, you have to go all the way to the top!" Rob, Kathleen and her friend were inspired and marched off, leading us on a tough but exhilarating climb to the summit.

Today's ride was brutally hot, the wind was was howling and the track was dusty, but it was amazing and exhilarating, we were so glad we took this route across the Camargue. Reports of the the sea dike route ranged from the optimistic "fine for all cyclists" to the more negative "sandy and bumpy, passable only with a mountain bike". The paved route inland was much longer and likely more boring, so we opted for optimism. Starting out, the path was actually crowded with families and day trippers, many on rented bikes, zigzagging along. The sea dike is a raised berm built long ago to control the flow of sea water into lagoons which are then sealed off so the water can evaporate leaving salt, the famous sel de Camargue. The path on top is rough with lots of bumps and a few spots where the sand was deep enough we had to get off and push but generally not bad enough to detract from that feeling of "here we are" in the midst of extremely rugged nature. A few km out of Ste Maries most people had turned off to a beach, or had enough adventure and turned back, and although the wind was mostly side-on, it must have been slightly on our backs as we made pretty good time. We thought of stopping for lunch at the lighthouse, but the few spots where there was some shelter from the wind were already taken by other cyclists, so we pushed on. After 18km the sea dike ended; suddenly the sensory overload of roaring wind, blinding sun and bumping road ended and we were gliding along a newly paved road with bushes and trees to cut the wind.

It had been an amazing experience and we were looking forward to hot showers and a cold beverage...but the chief navigator had messed up. Looking back, I somehow assumed that Port-St-Louis would be more charming that Le Grau du Roi but with fewer people, cheaper restaurants and maybe a better beach? In fact, Port St Louis is a massive industrial port and even if we were willing to put up with a view of the chemical plant, there is no campground! We found a Tabac that had a fridge stocked with cold beer and Perrier, so we sat and re-routed. A few variables were at play: The lovely resort town, Fos sur Mer, was on the next peninsula, 26 km away. And the wind was forecast to blow from the north again the next day making the ride north to Arles difficult. So we opted to go to Istres, 30 km north east, on bigger roads that we like, but with no trucks on a holiday Monday, where we could camp beside the water so Steve could have one more swim in the Mediterranean. Istres is close to the train line where we could catch a train to Arles the next day. We pulled in around 6pm, the showers were hot and even if there were no cold beverages available, it had been an amazing day.

Leaving Ste Maries on the Digue du mer, or Sea Dike.

Flamingos in one of the many lagoons along the way.

Flowers manage to grow and bloom in these harsh conditions.

Salt forming on a lagoon. The Camargue is renowned for its sel de mer

The last long stretch of dirt. We were dusty and had drunk most our water and this was only halfway.

Newly paved road with clearly marked cycling lanes.

These look like they will be launched into the sea. Possibly for tanker transfer or some other oil use?

An old bridge made beautiful. Public art is everywhere in France.

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Today's ride: 75 km (47 miles)
Total: 619 km (384 miles)

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Scott AndersonYou rode the dike! That was our plan when we stayed in Saintes Maries if we’d gotten favorable weather.
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonWhat a great ride!
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1 year ago

Kathleen WearyHonored to have a mention! Always impressed by your perseverance. Fond memories of adventure!
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1 year ago

ann and steve maher-wearyWow! Morning, thanks for reading and commenting Kathleen. Yes it was an adventure for sure. And there’s another big one in sight. Can’t wait!
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1 year ago