Pernes to Apt

May 16, 2023

The wind was our friend today! And what a difference that makes. We retraced the brutal ride of two days ago to L'Isle-Sur-La-Sorgue but this time we found the bike trail and we had the wind in our backs. It was glorious. (Why didn't Goggle maps route us to this trail two days ago?) We stopped in at the same bakery for more of their delicious bread for our lunch and continued. Ten km later we joined the official Eurovelo route 8 which, in this section is called the Calavon cycle route, and follows the river of that same name through the Luberon plain. Some rail trails go through the woods and back fields with few good views, this one, however, is an outstanding ride looking onto vineyards, lavender fields and hills (mountains) on both sides.

One of our stops for the day was planned at Goult, another charming village. It was a bit off the trail and a steep climb, but worth it. This stop was suggested by a couple who have a summer home in the area, via their parents who are friends of ours in Canada. They recommended Le Goultois, a bistrot in the village square. The patio was bustling with locals, tourists and quite a few cyclists. Most were drinking wine and grazing on charcuterie boards, but we opted for coffees and a lemon tart. It was a warm, sunny spot, AND out of the wind; a rarity in the last few days! With renewed energy we continued climbing to the top of the village for panoramic views across the valley to the high hills of the Parc Naturel du Luberon. We could see tomorrow's destination villages, Bonnieux and Lacoste to the east, but that elusive Mt Venoux was hidden by clouds. We sailed along to our next stop, the Pont Julian, a Roman stone arch bridge dating from 3 BC. It only stopped being used as a car traffic bridge in 2005. Imagine in use for almost 2000 years!

The last 12km continued to be terrific all the way to our campsite close to the historic heart of Apt. Exceptional trail, exceptional ride. Feeling pretty good and with some energy left after an easy day of riding, we decided to prepare a more elaborate than usual camp dinner of tuna steaks with new potatoes and peas accompanied by a Cote du Rhone Sablet, from a winery we had cycled by on the way to Gordes. Sante!