May 23, 2023
Mount Ventoux
Blue sky and sunshine greeted us as we crawled out of the tent; it looked like a perfect day to climb Ventoux. After big bowl of hearty granola for breakfast and a final review of the luggage, we joined the other cyclists heading off to make this iconic ride.
We warmed up our legs with the first few km of rolling farmland, then into the forest and the serious climbing. Ventoux is the most popular cycling climb in France, and a challenge for any rider. The matching Lycra outfitted crowd sped by on their super light bikes, many speaking German or Dutch, while the more leisurely, e-bike riding older couples cruised past with hardly a hair out of place. Racers on the Tour de France aim to make the 23km, 1600 metre ascent in under an hour. It took us four sweaty, slow, muscle straining hours but we had so many opportunities to stop, admire the view, take photos, walk off the cramps, munch a snack and catch our breath. With an average gradient of 7.9% and five of the segments over 10%, this was the hardest climb we have ever done. The forest provided welcome shade for over half the climb then we came out onto the rocky, exposed top. Tantalizing views and the clouds building over the summit encouraged us to press on for the final 6km to the top. The exhilaration and sense of accomplishment of getting these aging bodies up such a challenging climb is priceless.
How do we do it? Slowly and surely, one turn of the pedals after another. As on our other mountain rides, of the 100+ other cyclists on this route today, we didn't pass anyone, but then we didn't see anyone else riding with luggage, or even anyone on a non-electric touring bike. Someday it would be fun to try an epic climb on a fancy road bike, but I worry that we might still be the slowest and not have that excuse!
Just as we got to the summit the sun disappeared behind clouds and the temperature dropped to 15°C, we put on jackets and took quick photos, gobbled some nuts and dates, then turned towards Malaucene for the descent. This side of Ventoux looks into the Toulourenc valley with its steep slopes and striking rocky gorge. We didn't have much time to admire it before the rain started. There were big patches of blue sky all around so we quickly made the decision to carry on, assuming it was only a passing shower and there would be a better spot to take shelter just a bit further down. Eventually we did find shelter and the shower did pass, but not before we were soaked, cold to the bone and sore from holding the brakes on the wet road. To save weight we had left most of the rain gear behind, but we put on what we had and continued on downhill. Then the sun reappeared and hit us like a heat gun; immediately we were warmer and with the wind of zooming downhill, we were mostly dry by the time we arrived in Malaucene. Now we were ready for a substantial, hot lunch, but of course it was after 2pm and the restaurants were all just closing so we made do with a baguette and can of tuna in the park before heading to our apartment hotel. We checked in, showered, put on dry clothes, made a quick pasta supper and raised a glass or two of Ventoux red to celebrate a huge climb day.
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Thank you so much for checking out our blog and especially for dropping us a comment ! We are having a wonderful time. We’ve just spent two great days in Lyon. Tomorrow it’s back on the bikes.
1 year ago
Today's ride: 48 km (30 miles)
Total: 1,245 km (773 miles)
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