Minerve to Beziers

May 2, 2023

The forecast was for sunshine all day and we were excited at the prospect of riding through more of this lovely part of the country. After breakfast we rode up the hill for another view of the deep limestone valley before loading up. It was a beautiful morning with no traffic and superb views, so perhaps was the light bicycle or the lightness of spirit but coasting around a bend Ann mis-judged the curb and took a tumble. No damage beyond a scraped knee and a bruised shoulder but a reminder of how quickly things can go wrong in a moment's inattention.

With the panniers on, we decided that the suggested GPS route up and over the hills had too much unpaved, which are true farm tracks in these parts, or too much uphill, and from the earlier view from the top of the hill we could see almost no traffic on the main D10 that follows the valley. It was a good choice as we sailed down for over an hour, admiring the rock formations to the river, the vineyards and the occasional village or farm. Once down on the plain, the routes were a little trickier and the main roads were very busy, but we managed to find our way to Capestang where we lunched in the shaded main square and then continued on to our camping in Colombiers, just outside of Béziers.

Le Camping des Peupliers is close to the canal, and despite the fact that almost everyone we talk to shares our opinion of the terrible riding conditions, it is obviously a popular route as there are at least six other groups of cycle tourers tenting here. We chatted with an older (age 77) Dutch couple who have toured all over Europe and are riding with incredible loads (he even had a mallet to pound in the tent pegs) and an extended family from nearby on a three day circuit with grandparents, kids, a dog and a dad driving a van with all the camping gear.

After setting up the tent we heard a loud whoosh and were taken aback by how close the train passed by, but after a few trains we got used to it (sort of). Next morning I am glad to report that there were no late night trains, or at least none that kept either of us up. A positive sign that we are getting used to camping. And it didn't deter us from our plan to stay here a second night.

In Minerve, the 11th Century Roman church dedicated to Saint Étienne.

Morning tour on the ridge above Minereve.

A spin on the bikes to check out Minerve before we loaded on our panniers for the day. I took this pic of Steve and then followed him, taking the bend too sharply, I hit the edge of the pavement and tumbled. A few scrapes but was fine. 100% attention is needed at all times!

Minerve is one of Les Plus Beaux Villages in France.

Not much traffic on a Tuesday morning leaving Minerve on the D10

Church in La Caunette, the first town after leaving Minerve

A Sarmentine baguette. Shaped to resemble the branches of the vineyard.

Shopping at a roadside farm stand. The artichokes were tempting, but take too long to cook for camp stove cooking.

The wine cooperative for small vineyards. Languedoc is the region that produces the most wine in France.

Over the past 15 years, more than half of the 42,000 plane trees along the Canal du Midi have had to be cut down.

A total of seven intercalar species were selected for replanting: hackberry trees, Norway maple, small- and large-leaved linden, European hop-hornbeam, white poplar, stone pine and a so-called “milestone” species, the Turkey (or Austrian) oak, which will create new lines of trees along the canal from Toulouse to Marseillan.

Campground salad for supper. Delicious on a hot evening.

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Today's ride: 59 km (37 miles)
Total: 286 km (178 miles)

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Scott AndersonAm glad Ann’s spill wasn’t any worse. Hope she’s not too stiff and sore in the morning.
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1 year ago

ann and steve maher-wearyA little stiff on the back as I rolled onto it to save the shoulder. All good though now that’s been a few days. Thanks.
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1 year ago

Kathleen WearySorry to hear about your fall mom and glad you are okay!
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1 year ago