Fynshav to Aero and visit

June 17, 2023

Last night sitting at our campsite looking out at the ferry terminal that was going to take us onwards in Denmark we couldn't decide if this morning we should visit the island of Aero or take the ferry to Bojden and on to Faaborg. We'd heard that Aero was beautiful and an oasis of tranquility while Faaborg promised to be a more happening place for a Saturday night. By the morning we'd decided that we were due for a calm, slower day so we took the 9:30 ferry to Aero.

The campsite in Fynshav was the best one of the trip so far. It was wonderful to wake up beside the beach with sunshine, not a breath of wind and the Baltic Sea flat as a mirror in front of us. We had our breakfast watching the fishermen head out in their boats, the keeners getting in their morning dip and the ferries coming and going. There has been no rain here in at least three weeks so this part of Denmark is on full fire alert. Today was another hot sunny day.

Once the ferry docked in Aero, it was a 2km ride to the campground. It is an ideal campground too, right on the beach and with a fully equipped indoor kitchen. Now it's a toss up which one is the better campsite, although I think the kitchen, many outdoors seating areas, the casual vibe and the spectacular sunset has now put Soby Camping in the number one position! After putting up the tent and eating an early lunch it was great to explore the island without panniers. The island is 25km long and approximately 2km wide at its widest. Inge, the owner of the campsite said we had to go to Aeroskobing, about half way down the island, on the official Eurovelo 8 cycle route on the eastern side of the island. She was right, it was riding on car-free back roads with the water on your left and cute, thatched roofed houses all along the way. There were horse farms, beaches, sailboats, villages, fields of poppies and extraordinary views wherever you looked.

Arriving at Aeroskobing we first indulged in delicious, locally made ice-cream, then locked our bikes and toured around. It was only on reading the brochure on the ferry that we found out that Aeroskobing is the best-preserved eighteenth century town in Denmark and includes some houses that are actually more than 750 years old. "The town looks like it has been lifted out of a fairytale, with its cobbled streets, climbing roses and small, neatly kept houses. Many travel guides actually refer to it as the "Fairytale Town"". We concur it is a exceptionally well-preserved town which wasn't too busy either, perhaps because it is early season or because it is on an island and a takes a little more planning to get here. Back on our bikes we cycled up the Vesterstrand (peninsula) just outside of the town to see the tiny beach huts. The spots are rented forever and the huts must be kept the same with few changes. Some are more than 100 years old.

We decided to cycle back to the campground by crossing over the island and taking the local bike route #91 up the western side. It was as quiet as the route down, with a bit more gravel and fewer views. We stopped at the cliffs of Voderup Klint also known as Denmark's longest staircase. We didn't go down to the water's edge because it was getting late but from the upper plateau we had wonderful views of the Baltic Sea and the northern shores of Germany.

All of a sudden there were black clouds and a thunderstorm threatening so we diverted to the main road and raced to the grocery and home. (Amazingly there was little traffic on it as well.) Thankfully the storm blew by without a drop of rain. Feeling very hot and sticky Steven convinced Ann to go for a swim. The water is "refreshing" and "heavenly". After showers we revelled in the space and appliances of a "real" kitchen to make supper and still had time to go back to the beach to watch the 10pm sunset over the water.

Checking out the next morning, I mentioned to Inge how few cars were on the roads. She told us it was because everyone can travel for free on the buses. And the buses take bicycles too. She said it is easier to take the bus then driving a car and getting stuck behind a bus. What a super initiative by the island community!