Flam to Gudvangen - Midtsommer - Mediterranean to the Fjords - CycleBlaze

July 7, 2023

Flam to Gudvangen

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We woke to the sounds of the constant rush of water from the steep ravine of the wild Kårdalsfossen waterfall at our campsite under stately pine trees.  We had been joined by two German brothers who arrived after we’d already gone to bed. They were heading up from Flam so we shared our experience of the hairpin bends to Myrdal and the snow onwards to Finse.  Ann enviously eyed their new Dale of Norway sweaters and Steve and I agreed,  at least they would stay warm at the higher altitudes; and perhaps there might be some shopping to be done in Bergen!

After a lazy breakfast we were soon enjoying our payback ride after the workout of the last three days, a leisurely 16km  coast down to Flam. The scenery was stunning.  Waterfalls tumbling down precipitous mountainsides, farms clinging to steep slopes and small hamlets nestled in tiny outcrops of land before we came to a wide open valley just before Flåm. 

In Flåm we changed out of cycling gear and joined the crowds who had already arrived by train and boat, for a non-camp lunch of salmon, roast pork, ice cream and coffee while we charged our phones and waited for our 4pm boat departure time. 

Flåm is nestled innermost in the Aurlandsfjord, an arm of the 204-km long and up to 1308-meter-deep Sognefjord.  When planning last February we had read that the cruise from Flam to Gudvangen was a “must” of any visit to Norway and that sailings fill up fast, so we booked and knew we had to be in Flam on July 7.  The boat ride promised to show us “Norwegian nature at its most beautiful and magnificent”, and it did.   We sailed through the Aurlandsfjord and then continued through the narrow and UNESCO protected Naeroyfjord before we arrived at Gudvangen two hours later.  It is a trip through pristine Norwegian nature with more impressive waterfalls, small idyllic villages, stave churches and coastal farms.  A fellow passenger pointed out the snow-capped peaks of the Jostedalsbreem National Park with the largest glacier in mainland Europe. It is a beautiful and dramatic landscape. 

All too soon it was over and we were in Gudvangen and peddling off in search of a campsite.  We had planned to stay in Bakka where the campsite has glowing reviews but we had a chance to look it over from the boat and decided it wasn’t worth backtracking 7km.  And we have been bitten by the allure of wild camping, so thought that if the perfect spot came up we might opt for that again.  

About 7km out of Gudvangen, we found the spot- on an island.  It had the challenge of getting us, our stuff and our bikes across a two foot wide swinging bridge but the result was heavenly, sitting beside the clear, rushing Naeroydelselvi River, a flat pitch for the tent and a ramshackle shelter with a bench that we could have breakfast in if it rained. We couldn’t believe our luck. 

After our huge lunch, supper was a simple affair of cheese sandwiches and chocolate but it was eaten in one of Norway’s awe-inspiring places.  It had been another good day in majestic Norway “a place that makes every adventurer's heart skip a beat”.

View from our campsite.
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Turquoise water from the Kårdalsfossen waterfall.
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A waterfall with a height of appr. 200 meters.
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As the valley begins to open up.
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First view of Flam waterfront.
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Our cruise boat and crew arriving. We were on the last boat of the day. The earlier afternoon trip was full when we booked our voyage in March. For our trip there were only six of us.
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Leaving Flam
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Leaving Flam, a last look at the cruise ships.
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Private tour!
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A fine example of a hanging valley for all you glacial geologists.
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Snow-capped peaks of the Jostedalsbreem National Park with the largest glacier in mainland Europe.
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Gudvangen
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It sways a lot, especially when bringing the bikes on it.
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Mike AylingRather you than me!
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1 year ago
Suzanne GibsonNo railings?!?
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1 year ago
Susan CarpenterNo way, not ever! I admire your derring-do and am glad you stayed aloft.
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1 year ago
Home for the night.
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Today's ride: 25 km (16 miles)
Total: 3,166 km (1,966 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonWe were in Norway about ten years ago in a small camper van. It was perhaps the most amazing scenery I have ever seen, but I couldn't imagine riding my bike there. I am so glad to see it now through cyclists' eyes.
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyTo Suzanne GibsonThanks Suzanne for commenting about our trip. Steve and I have fallen in love with Norway. We have met several Germans cyclists and they all say that we have to do the ride to The Cape. Now that we are here, we see why. We have to come back!
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1 year ago
Rich FrasierBeautiful pictures! What a great day of travel! Your eyeballs must be tired!
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1 year ago