Copenhagen to Elsinor

June 23, 2023

Today’s our last full day of cycling in Denmark. Once again we are quite taken by the cycling infrastructure. We were on dedicated cycle paths the entire day.

The first 12 km took us through marshland, dykes, inlets and suburban settings. The signage was easy to follow as we cycled in sunshine meeting many walkers and other cyclists along the way.

At Avedore we entered into the West Rampart, a 14 km series of old bunkers and trenches built with shovels and wheelbarrows for an earlier form of warfare. It is an impressive military work that was built between 1888 and 1892 to defend Copenhagen. In 1920 it was put out of commission for defence purposes without ever having been used. Today it’s a recreational area with a smooth paved bike trail under a canopy of trees. We had lunch at a serene picnic table on top of a rampart at Husum before continuing, still on cycle paths but now beside the roadway. A few km later, a short climb brought us up to a rail trail that then slowly descended to beautiful white sandy beaches at Vedbaek and our first views of Sweden just across the water.

The last 25km were along the water passing through towns, beaches and marshes with a steady head wind. It was tough going but there was lots to see, sailboats, sunbathers, rich people’s elaborate ‘beach’ houses and grand old hotels.

Arriving in Helsingborg, or Elsinore as Shakespeare wrote it, we looked for Hamlet St. and admired the fortress that could have been the prince of Denmark’s castle.

After picking up groceries we were tired and glad to get to the campground, only to see a sign indicating that they were full because there is an Ironman race here this weekend. At the campground in Copenhagen it was deadly quiet when we thought it would be teeming with campers and here we thought that it would be quiet and we almost couldn’t get in. Fortunately, most always, there’s room for cyclists so we have a tiny spot between two cabins for the night.

West Rampart, paved road now for the sole use of cyclists and pedestrians.

Military defence built in 1888-1892. These bunkers go on for 14 km.

Some seem to be in use others perhaps not.

The end of high school is a much celebrated event in Denmark. Graduating students wear these natty, almost nautical caps everywhere to display their accomplishment.

And today we met several trucks with graduates in the back partying. The tradition is for your class of around 30 students, who you have been in your specialty program with for several years, to celebrate by travelling around for the day to each family’s home where you are given food and drink, often liquor. They are making lots of noise with the truck horn, music and singing. At the campsite we heard them going by late into the evening.

Everyone stops to look and cheer as the trucks go by.

Beach at Vedbaek. The bonfire is ready to be lit tonight at 10 pm for Denmark’s Midsummer Night Celebrations.

Could this be Hamlets castle? No it’s the train station Elsinor.

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Today's ride: 72 km (45 miles)
Total: 2,550 km (1,584 miles)

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