Looking up what to see and do in Beaune I read this:
Beaune is a walled town at the center of the Burgundy winemaking region in France. Surrounded by the Côte d'Or vineyards, the cobbled town is renowned for an annual wine auction held at the Hôtel-Dieu (Hospices de Beaune). Recognized by its colorful, geometric-patterned tile roof, this 15th-century former hospital is now the Hôtel-Dieu Museum, showcasing works like "The Last Judgement" altarpiece by Van der Weyden.
That was when I remembered seeing pictures of Dan and Johanne's trip four years ago to this area and being intrigued by their photos of the Hôtel-Dieu. And by chance we are here; and it is as beautiful and interesting as I thought it would be. We went for the full tour which provides listening devices in the 15thC voices of the founders of the hospital, Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone. With the audio explaining the historical buildings and artifacts, we were quickly immersed in the workings of a hospital from the beginning to present day. It is indeed an architectural gem. The hospital was built as a refuge for the poor during a difficult time for the French peasants and continued as a working hospital from 1443 until 1971!
Rolin quickly realized, as is true of hospitals today, that securing funding is an intregal part of being able to continue to care for patients whether they can pay or not. Initially, the hospital was able to offer care to the destitute by charging and providing a wing for the well-to-do. Later through donations of farms, property, artwork and, of course, vineyards, made by grateful families and generous benefactors, they continued their charitable work. During Rolin's time, the hospital was also was a place where the poor were given bread every morning. This alone cost the hospital 10% of its budget. This couple's innovative approach to offering care was copied in Burgundy and all over France.
After our morning visit to the hospital and a meander through the Saturday market, we packed up the tent and cycled on to Dijon through La Voie des Vignes. From Beaune to Dijon we found some of the most gorgeous vineyards we've seen yet, while passing through stunning villages with names of prestigious appellations: Pommard, Aloxe-Corton, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Meursault and Santenay. And there were lots of cyclists! This is a haven for cycling; there are manageable rolling hills, the villages are usually nestled in the valleys and the routes are paved agricultural roads, so devoid of traffic. It was an idyllic afternoon ride. However we did have the wind in our face and we were gaining elevation for two days as we climbed to Dijon, so maybe heading south instead of north would be wise choice next time we come.
These stunning, glazed roof tiles are typical in Bourgogne. The original ones from the 1440s were replaced in the 1800s.
