May 28, 2023
Balade Gourmande - Vinsobres
Walking Tasting Vineyard Tour
Rounding the last roundabout we passed a big sign "Balade Gourmande Vinsobres 28 Mai" and, being hungry, we both exclaimed that it would be a worthwhile alternative for tonight's supper. We were wrong on two counts, 28 Mai was the next day and a web search revealed that the balade was a walk around the surrounding area with food for lunch, but we were right that it was a worthwhile alternative.
And it started early. Ann managed to get last minute tickets for 9:15am, so we quickly made our way to city hall, picked up our first food of the day, plates of viennoiseries and coffee, and our handy wine glasses with string to go around the neck, and then found Groupe #5. A "balade" is a combination walk and excursion (those of a certain age may recognize "baladeur" as the Quebecois word for Walkman).
We were an assortment of 40 people, mostly French and mostly around our age, some couples, some families, some groups, some keeners in hiking garb with trekking poles and others dressed for an afternoon at the cafe. It is amazing how the ear detects the familiar sounds of English and we did chat with a few of that special type of American who lives in France, but we also walked and talked with French people, who also were mostly weekenders or visitors. Steve tried to stay close to one of the guides, Guy, a loquacious viticulteur with a vineyard just around the corner from the tour route, who happily answered innumerable questions and educated us about growing vines and making wine. Vinsobres Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée (AOC) requires majority percentages of Syrah (Shiraz in Australian) and Grenache grapes and, although Guy pointed them out, I could not differentiate the vines. What was interesting was the different ages of the vines and how these require different management to maximize either quantity or quality of wine produced. Here, Grand Cru vines can have no more than 10 bunches of grapes, whereas in St Emilion, Bordeaux, we were told the vines are pruned to leave only six bunches for the best wines.
The route was along the dirt paths connecting vineyards, up and down hills and seemingly in the middle of nowhere until we came out at a farm or settlement for a food stop. It was a blue sky morning and was hot so we were thirsty after almost an hour's hiking when we arrived at the first stop where we snacked on the most delicious olives and white wine. Just what was needed to replenish electrolytes. Thankfully, lots of cold water was also available. Another half hour to the 'apéro' stop where we were served plates of substantial pastries and more wine. Marquis tents shaded the tables at the farm where the main courses were served at large communal tables. Sausages, ratatouille, spelt and bread, all locally made and accompanied by bottles of rich, red wine which were consumed with gusto while we were entertained by musicians.
The cheese course followed with a Brie and a chèvre, but now the good wines were coming out, carefully poured and explained by the vintners from two of the premium, Vinsobres estates. Delicious. The walking seemed harder as we climbed one more hill and back into town for dessert, gâteau opera with fresh strawberries. Someone said that 400 people had walked the Balade this year and at least half had congregated in the main square eating dessert. We were so glad to have joined this event and to be sitting there, with a band playing and feeling utterly satisfied with the day.
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Today's ride: 12 km (7 miles)
Total: 1,428 km (887 miles)
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