Saint-Pierre to Feuillade

June 11, 2018

Today was an up and down day with a happy ending.

After a hearty breakfast of sausages, eggs, and tomatoes I was off on what promised to be the most challenging day of riding thus far. There would be hills, something an Iowa girl does not often experience.

There had been another thunderstorm the night before, and the day started dreary and overcast. I headed down the hill to Availles-Limouzine and soon joined a stretch of Eurovelo 3 (EV3) running between Tours and Angoulême. EV3 is known as the Pilgrims route, and it extends from Trondheim, Norway to Santiago de Compostello, Spain. In France it includes sections of each of the four Pilgrimage routes of Camino Santiago. The route today was well-marked with veloroute signs, though none carried a specific EV3 logo as was seen on EV6 through the Loire Valley.

The day was unremarkable, criss-crossing the Vienne River and cycling up and down the hills of the Vienne and Charante departments. The area was populated with abbeys, chateaus, and small French villages which, on a less dreary day, would better capture the charm of this region of France. But today was more of a grind, my body tired and my thoughts focused on the task at hand. I contemplated taking an unplanned day off to catch up on the journal and to get refreshed before meeting my friend Carolyn in Bordeaux in a few days. She will be joining me for a couple of weeks as we cycle from Bordeaux to Lyon.

Started the day heading downhill into Availles-Limouzine

Castle overlooking village of Lessac (I think)

Bridge over Vienne River at Confolens, a town I would like to re-visit

Limousin cattle in the Lakes Region of Haute Charente

After about 50 miles, I came across the first sign to Feuillade, my stop for the night. A swooping downhill ride led me to the small village and Saint Alfonso's, where I was warmly welcomed by BeBe and Junior. BeBe's husband Dieter arrived after a bit and we shared a delicious dinner made from local products. BeBe is French and Dieter is an American - they met and married in the US and came to France about 4 years ago. Over dinner, we explored the common and distinct features of American and French culture, the value of small scale living, and bikes. Dieter was enamored with Vivien George, and after dinner gave her a bath and let her stay inside for the night. Taking her for a ride the following morning, he declared himself to be a "happy biker."

First signage to Feuillade - and only 4 km to go!

A warm welcome at Saint Alfonso's by BeBe, Dieter and Junior

Today's ride: 53 miles (85 km)
Total: 501 miles (806 km)

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