Loches to Poitiers

After good-byes to Caroline and my Loches family, I headed southwest for Poitiers. Guillem suggested an alternate route than what I had planned -although on a larger road out of Loches, it would avoid heavier traffic when I approached Poitiers. It was a great option. The surface was smooth, there was a shoulder for long stretches, and very little traffic on this Saturday morning. I made good time and stopped in Ligueil for coffee and lunch provisions. The goings-on at the G7 summit were writ large in the headlines of the French newspapers, and I was soon discussing world politics with the woman at the adjoining table, who found everything "scary".

I crossed the Vienne river at Dangé-Saint-Romain where I enjoyed my lunch provisions in front of the town hall. Following the Vienne River, I arrived at Châtellerault, where the route was blocked by the French Para-Cycling Road Championships. In no short order, I was shooed off the road and in search of an alternate route. I stopped to ask directions from two men, one a race official and other a cyclist. They told me a bit about the race and vrroooom, a small peleton of about 20 tandems - each with one sighted and one blind cyclist - went whizzing by. I fumbled with my camera, but they were too fast so instead I got a photo of the two men, who both happened to be named Emmanuel.

I made my way across the Vienne and had a nice espresso in the older part of Châtellerault, where the proprietor asked if I was traveling the Camino Santiago, or St. James Way. During the Middle Ages, the Camino Santiago was one of the most important Christian pilgrimage routes, and today hundreds of thousands of people make at least a portion of the journey each year, mostly on foot or bicycle. There are four different Pilgrimage routes through France. Châtellerault is on the Paris Way, which follows from Paris through the cities of Orleans, Tours, Châtellerault, Poitiers and Bordeaux before joining two of the other France routes near Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which was the starting point depicted in the movie The Way. Interestingly, on leaving the café, I met two cyclists from Germany who were on their way to Santiago de Compostello.

Châtellerault overlooking the Vienne River

I had planned my route south to pass through some of the medieval cities of historic significance, and I arrived in Poitiers around 5 pm. I was welcomed by my WarmShowers host Anne who, along with her boyfriend Sebastian, is a musician. The small 2-story apartment is filled with all sorts of musical instruments and equipment, including a bass (Sebastian) and tuba (Anne). Sebastian was away on a gig, and I proposed to Anne that I would buy her dinner if she would served as my tour guide through Poitiers and it's history. She delightfully agreed, and off we went.

Poitiers has a rich trove of Roman archeological ruins, including a large amphitheater, Roman baths and aqueducts. The Baptistery of St. John, whose central portion was constructed atop of Roman ruins around 360, is thought to be the oldest existing Christian building in the West. Poitiers is the birthplace of Eleanor of Aquitaine, one of the most powerful women of the Middle ages, and married the future King Henry II of England in the Poitiers Cathedral. The Battle of Poitiers was a key victory for England during the Hundred Years War, and a formal inquest of Joan of Arc took place in Poitiers in 1429.

Palace of Poitiers, seat of the Counts of Poitou and Dukes of Aquitaine and childhood home of Eleanor of Aquitaine

Roman archeological artifacts at site of Poitiers Palace, which was constructed above a Roman wall datable to the late 3rd century

Poitiers Cathedral - where Eleanor of Aquitaine married the future King of England Henry II

As I was famished, we interrupted the tour to eat - thinking we would visit the Roman amphitheater after dinner. Anne picked out one of her favorite places, a small organic restaurant with a lovely terrace seating area. Over dinner, we talked about the power of cycling. Anne started biking to improve a chronic medical condition, and she made a pilgrimage to Lourdes on her bike when told she could not make the journey on foot. Inspired by the strong women encountered on our tour - Eleanor and Joan - we shared stories of our challenges and small victories, of the inner strength forged when overcoming seemingly insurmountable obstacles during long and/or difficult rides. We salute strong women in all walks of life.

Relaxing dinner in outdoor terrace at one of Anne's favorite restaurants

Anne and Susan after an enjoyable dinner. We never made it to the Roman amphitheater, but instead explored our shared love of the power of cycling.

Today's ride: 47 miles (76 km)
Total: 401 miles (645 km)

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