Of rain and hills: St. Flour to Chaudes Aigues

July 29, 2015

How does the weatherman make his predictions? Today, light rain was predicted, maybe a millimeter or so, but that was not at all the case. It poured. Cats and dogs, indeed. Arks were seen with animals rushing to get inside. And this intrepid cyclist? Why he was lugging his sodden carcass up hill and down dale while barely able to see where he was going. In the end, I only got as far as Chaudes Aigues, where a hotel beckoned with warm showers, towels and the promise of food.

Actually, the day didn't start out bad. I was out the door early, and the descent from the center of St. Flour was easy on everything but the brakes. The road did go up and down a bit, but nothing I couldn't handle. I stopped to admire Gustave Eiffel's master work at Garabit (yes, THAT Eiffel, the guy who built the tower), and spoke to a couple of other tourists who were curious about the bike.

Shortly after passing the bridge, it started to rain. Nothing major at first, just nuisance rain, like a heavy mist. I was following the Bes river valley, and the going was easy. The climb out of the valley was relatively easy, but then the road redescended and things got serious. I dug my poncho out of my bags, and put it on. For a while that kept me dry. But not for long. The rain really started to come down. To the point where the roadway was awash, this on a fairly steep slope, mind. The water came down my neck, and soon I was soaked through. So I did what I suppose anyone but the most masochistic would, I bailed at the first opportunity, and got a hotel in Chaudes Aigues.

After showering, and putting on dry clothes, I went across the street from the hotel for lunch, sausage and aligot again, but better than the night before. Lunch and the slow draining away of adrenalin left me sleepy, so I went back to the hotel for a nap. When I woke up, the sun had come out, but I was not about to recommence the ride. I wandered about the town, drank a beer, and eventually ate supper in the hotel. The supper was good, homemade terrine, brochettes of beef, and salad, with a nice Bordeaux to wash it down, then bed.

View from my hotel window. The streets are wet with rain, which although diminished, is still falling.

The natural hot spring which is the primary attraction of Chaudes Aigues. The water comes out at 82C, hot enough to burn. Chaudes Aigues is one of the few places where the spa is still running, and it was packed.

I love the old narrow streets of French towns.

Today's ride: 45 km (28 miles)
Total: 286 km (178 miles)

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