model As, french camp, and amish tourers

October 16, 2021

Day Eight: Kosciusko to stealth campsite near Cumberland

I woke up at 6:40 and decided to try to go back to sleep. I didn't think I'd be able to, but when I looked at the time 15 minutes later it was 7:50. Outside it was a cool 52 degrees, but cozy inside my sleeping inside my tent. I always try to pitch my tent so the morning sun will hit it and warm it up, making it easier to get up and moving. When it struck my tent today, even though it was in the 50s outside, the inside tent warmed up quickly. In the last half of my very first bike trip, which was over the course of an entire summer, I developed the ability to pitch my tent in a location and know within a few minutes what time the sun would hit it. In that manner, I would use the sun as an alarm clock.

I repacked everything differently again today, placing the tent on the rack again.

I noticed it was 10:00 sharp when I strapped my helmet on and climbed onto my bike. I pedaled to the convenience store to refill my Gatorade bottles with water, then just decided to buy more Gatorade instead. Breakfast was Peak's Strawberry Granola, which was almost as good as my homemade. When I passed the Ranger’s Station, I saw that the mammoth Marmot was gone… early risers, no doubt. Or, more accurately, unlike me, non-late risers.

When I reached the Trace it was 61 degrees. When you’re riding you should start off a little cold because you’ll warm up pretty fast and end up taking off clothing not long after you put it on. However, after about half a mile I wasn’t warming up because of the headwind so I put my jacket on, after which it was really pleasant.

There were about 10-12 antique cars on the road today, mostly Model As…. some kind of convention? I managed to get some pictures, but they’re not great.

I stopped in French Camp at the convenience store and ordered a pizza. They were crazy busy and, like every other place I’ve been to in Mississippi, no one wore a mask.

While my pizza was being prepared I waited outside on a bench and drank a PowerAde. A guy in his 30s, waiting for his mother to bring out their pizza, was in the passenger seat of their car and struck up a conversation. He found out I was riding on the NTP and was very proud of the fact that he helped pave it. I asked some questions about what he’s doing now, and he let me know he has a much better job now, as a welder. He also asked the Usual Questions about my trip…. where I started, where I was going, how many miles in a day….. I showed him the map of my previous trips and he showed some mild interest. However, when he found out my bike is 25 years old, his eyes widened and his jaw dropped. He was dumbfounded, and suggested that I make a FaceBook page about it. He even recommended I contact the Guinness Book of World Records - he was very sure they’d be interested.

The place was really crowded for about 25 minutes, then it all died down. When my pizza was ready I took it back to my wooden bench and ate it, enjoying the afternoon.

About halfway through my pizza, the cashier came out. Her name is Minna, a native of New York City who moved here when she was 14. She originally worked as an EMT on an ambulance but the tragedy was too much for her so her husband got her the job at this convenience store 21 years ago. She was proud to be the one who brought in the pizza oven, which is apparently a real moneymaker. Between waiting for my pizza, eating, and talking to her, I ended up staying there for about 45 minutes.

For some reason, she wanted me to take a picture of this gas pump… so here you go, compliments of Minna.

After leaving French Camp I hadn’t gone more than a mile when I saw a biker stopped on the other side of the road. Because I like to talk to other cyclists I pulled over to his side and we ended up chatting for at least 30 minutes, although it seemed more like 10. Jeff Lee (no relation to The General), from Henderson, Kentucky, is a really interesting person. We seem to have a lot in common, such has wanting to talk to other cyclists (he didn’t really need to stop - he just pulled over in case I wanted to talk), making fun of people in massive RVs who take a 60-inch television to “camp,” growing up in the South, bicycling, and a number of other things. Unlike me, he travels lighter and faster. He starts early, rides faster, and stays in motels. Consequently, he averages 80-100 miles every day. He also knows someone who provides bicycle routes based on traffic patterns so he’s able to take unused roads. Interestingly, his wife briefly worked for Adventure Cycling Association, and her PhD dissertation was somehow related to what they do. The conversation was enjoyable, but unfortunately we're traveling in opposite directions. I did ask for his email address, which isn't something I usually do. He also gave me his cycling blog (which is how I learned about CycleBlaze). As it turns out, our writing styles are very similar except, of course, his is actually interesting, and funny, and he takes better pictures. Almost identical, really, if you think about it. Click here for his blog of his trip --> Jeff's blog

While we were chatting, an unlikely couple passed us heading the same direction as I’m traveling. They only stopped briefly, but we learned that they’re an Amish couple (not Mennonite) traveling from Natchez to Nashville on the Natchez for their honeymoon. They were wearing traditional Amish clothing: him in breeches and suspenders with the stereotypical beard, and her in a dress and bonnet. I didn’t catch their names, but did snap a quick picture of them as they were pedaling away.

By 2:30 I had only traveled 25 miles. My goal is 50 so I won’t have so many tomorrow. The miles seemed to pass very slowly today, but they weren’t unpleasant. The headwind wasn’t strong enough to be draining or demoralizing, but it did slow me down a bit.

When I hit 50 miles I started looking for a campsite. I finally settled on a field with a bunch of round hay bales. Are they still called “bales” when they’re those large, round shapes? (One of my dad’s favorite jokes: “You know they outlawed those round hay bales? Yeah, the cows couldn’t get a square meal.”) I walked the bike off the road about a hundred yards and hid my tent behind a hay bale, completely invisible. I wasn’t particularly hungry but ate anyway. It seems colder than the 65 degrees my weather app says it is. Being in the shade seems to make a big difference.

There was no cell service at all so I didn’t have any internet, which was kind of refreshing. I didn't miss it, and the 50 billion stars more than made up for it. Once in my tent I cleaned up, then climbed into my sleeping bag and sipped on some wine I brought as I enjoyed reading my book.

51.9 miles
1369 feet climbed
7.6% grade
7:07:44 total time
4:36:49 moving time
31.8 mph max speed
11.2 mph average moving speed
2528 calories

Today's ride: 52 miles (84 km)
Total: 460 miles (740 km)

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