3: not snowing, mitzi, tragedy strikes, mailboxes, hurricane monument

March 20, 2025

Marathon to Tavernier

The first thing I saw upon leaving my tent this morning.

I'd like to start off by saying that it's snowing in Iowa City today. Here, today's low is 72F/22C and the high is 75F/23.8C.

And also that I'll have a tailwind today.

There was a long-ish section of bike path immediately upon leaving the park.

Of course, eventually I end back on Overseas Highway. This is one of the nice sections which is separate from the highway, and quite long.

This orange plant really stood out, and I'm hoping someone named Bill can help me out with what it is.

After a few more miles I came upon the Dolphin Research Center.

A 30-foot tall statue of a mother and baby dolphin stands in front of their buildings.

The Dolphin Research Center is a "serious-minded facility devoted to education and public awareness." More importantly to me, it's also the final resting place of my favorite dolphin of all time, Mitzi, whom everyone knows as as Flipper (a stage name). I saw every episode of the TV series when I was growing up.

You may be surprised to learn that Flipper is actually a she. A male stunt dolphin, Mr. Gipper, did all of Flipper's tail-walking (Mitzi could never master that trick). Even without the tail-walking, Mitzi was the star who, apparently smarter than her keepers, nudged wayward boats back to safety, knocked guns out of poachers' hands with well-timed leaps, and warned Bud and Sandy whenever danger lurked. I think I recall one episode where she completed their taxes and helped repair their carburetor with only duct tape and a pencil.

In the early sixties, the Dolphin Research Center was known as Santini's Porpoise School. It was run by Milton Santini, a pioneer in dolphin husbandry and training. Mitzi, who was Santini's first pupil, was picked to star as Flipper in the original movie. It was filmed here at the research center.

When Mitzi died of a heart attack (was it due to drink and drugs like so many stars??) she was buried beneath a dolphin statue in the School's courtyard. The research center maintains the grave, and in honor of her accomplishments they always make it the first stop on the tour. There's a small plaque inside which reads:
Dedicated to the Memory of Mitzi
The Original Flipper
1958 - 1972

Mitzi left no progeny, but Mr. Gipper did. His daughter, Tursy, can also tail-walk.

I decided against the tour because the swim-with-a-dolphin isn't my kind of thing.

I followed the Garmin's directions and was pleased to see I'd be on a side road instead of the main highway.

I like my bike a lot, but I'm still getting used to it, especially riding loaded (subtle foreshadowing).

Note the shape of my handlebars, and how the bar ends are shaped like a hook, able to grab anything I pass (more subtle foreshadowing).

My goodness... there's not much space between those vertical tent poles and the fishing poles (even more subtle foreshadowing).

As you expected, my handlebar caught on the tent pole and I went down faster than a boxer throwing a fight. First, my hip thudded against the pavement, then my shoulder a bit harder, and by the time my head got around to joining the party it slammed onto the concrete... once, then a softer second bounce.

I lay there, face up and unmoving, until a woman's face appeared above me. In broken English,
"You... Okay?"
"I don't yet. No sé todavía."

The cyclist pictured above wearing the Outer Banks jersey also appeared.

I did a mental examination of everything and after a few seconds found that other than my elbow nothing felt seriously injured, or even painful. I got up and continued my examination.... there was some blood on my elbow, but no bones were sticking out and I could move everything.

I felt really fortunate that the only injury was a minor excoriation to my elbow, and even more fortunate I was wearing a helmet.

Crashing is inevitable. I knew before I started that I'll likely crash, and probably more than once. I only hoped that when it happened it wouldn't tragically end my tour.

Once I got back on my bike, that's when tragedy struck.

Just before I started riding, the bicyclist who'd recently passed me, then came back to help, said that the reason he turned around is because the bridge we're on ends about 50 yards ahead.

That's the real tragedy. This entire episode was for nothing.

I want to add that in the foreshadowing picture above (not this one - the one several previous), they had already moved the tent poles back to allow for more room, probably to prevent some idiot from catching his handlebars on them in the future. You're looking in the direction I came from.

Nothing to do but turn around and ride over the same ground I'd already pedaled.

There are a lot of sea-themed mailboxes. Here's a selection from the past few days.

Lunch was from a taco truck, which had the best tortillas I've had since I can remember.

It was next door to a microbrewery where you can pour your own draught, straight from the tap, but only for this specific beverage.

Within eyesight of my lunch stop was the Hurricane Monument. This limestone structure is a memorial to the hundreds who died in the 2 September 1935 hurricane, and even houses some of the unidentified people’s cremated remains.

This hurricane, which killed more than 300 people, is considered the most intense hurricane ever to make landfall in United States history. It resulted in the highest sustained winds (estimated to be more than 200 mph), a 15-foot storm surge, and the lowest barometric sea-level pressure ever measured in the USA (892 millibars/26.35 inches).

This is made of local coral rock with a tile mosaic depicting the Keys

At least half of the people killed were World War I veterans working on the road to Key West.

I noticed 3-4 boats all speeding out to what appeared to be a collection of... something.

So I got my telephoto out and took a picture. It looks like a sand bar where people just walk around and (likely) drink.

Lobster Trap Art seems very specific. It was on the other side of the street and I didn't want to die, so I didn't go in.

I saw a LOT of ads for marijuana, all of which said "No Medical Card Needed." Make sure you read the door of this rolling advertisement.

I'll also add that it's amazing how often I smell marijuana cycling down the road. Cars whizzing past at 45-50 mph and I smell it for 5-10 seconds at least five times a day.

After 40 miles I rolled into Tavernier, just south of Key Largo, and checked into my AirBnB.

This is what $260.00 will get you in Key Largo

After showering, I decided to sit on the front porch because the weather is absolutely perfect. As Heather and I were doing an online crossword puzzle together some movement in the corner of my eye caught my attention. I knew I saw something move, but there was nothing. It happened again so I went to investigate.

One of the things I learned at the Turtle Hospital yesterday is that you should never, ever stick your hands into the water where the turtles are. They can, and will, take off a finger. In the second video this guy seemed to be coming straight for me, and has a hungry look in his reptilian eyes.

Eventually, it was time to eat so I walked to the restaurant recommended by my host. I briefly talked to her, and without me asking she told me that her black eye wasn't from someone hitting her. It's from falling off a barstool.

"It's a good thing it was the one in my backyard. If it was over at Snapper's I'd've never heard the end of it."

A fish sandwich for $20.00? I'm going to start doing what Steve and Dodie Miller (and everyone else who figured it out a long time ago) and go to the grocery store.

The atmosphere was nice, and it was a perfect 72 degrees with a cool breeze coming off the ocean.

Back in my room I made a couple of videos showing how well hydrogen peroxide removes blood, both from skin and clothing, but decided no one wants to spend 30 seconds looking at me pouring something on my elbow. It works great, though.

I looked up instructions on how to repair the hole in my tent and found that I need to clean it with alcohol. If only I had some alcohol wipes.... but wait! I do! Did you forget my massive packing list already?

You can't tell because the patch is clear, but it's solid.

Heart

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Today's ride: 40 miles (64 km)
Total: 100 miles (161 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	11
Comment on this entry	Comment	7

Steve Miller/GrampiesOuch. That elbow looks painful, or will be by tomorrow. Time to haul out the antibiotic ointment, bandaging and Vitamin I (Ibuprofen) . Good thing you have such an extensive packing list!
By the way, check the helmet for cracks or dents. After a crash/fall like yours there is often some damage, to the helmet as well as other body parts. If you find any it is best to replace the helmet as soon as possible. You might need it for the next time. Not that we want there to be a next time, of course. Love, Dodie
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4 weeks ago

Cat LloydThat turtle looks like a tortoise...probably hoping you had a lettuce leaf or some other yummy vegetable to offer.
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4 weeks ago

Bill ShaneyfeltTo Cat LloydCorrect
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4 weeks ago

Mark BinghamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesIf I didn't know better, I'd say you were a nurse. :-) Fortunately, I didn't even need to take something for pain, probably because I brought it. More on the helmet later.
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4 weeks ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesTo Mark BinghamWell, in fact I am (was) a Pediatric nurse. And a Mom. So there is a strong tendency to offer unasked for advice. It comes from a place of caring, but of course you need not pay any attention to any of my "help". Dodie
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3 weeks ago

Mark BinghamTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI knew you were a pediatric head nurse from your profile, and reading your journals it's clear you're both very caring people.
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3 weeks ago

Jon AylingOuch! Glad it's not too serious. Amazing tour by the way!
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3 weeks ago