Day 6: Salema to Monchique

March 23, 2025

Stiff headwinds first 1/2, then tailwinds for the stiff climbing…still some rain and even hail

We consider ourselves lucky that the worst of the crazy weather we’re having happens after we go to bed. This night was no different. Wicked strong storm at 02:30 resulted in power outages, no heat this morning, but as is said, it was a first world problem.

Our route today took us north to the N125, then in Budens we turned north on a track that became dirt after a few hundred meters. We had about 10 km of dirt, and one climb of about 1.5 km at 9%, with a headwind. There was no traffic and our 32 mm tires were fine. We joined the N268 and headed north into an even stiffer headwind, probably 45-50 kph and gusty. Carrapateira beckoned after a several km of this travel with coffee and a pastry. Interesting clientele. Two of whom were living monuments to the Montana adage: you can’t say you’ve been drinking all day unless you start at breakfast. Add chain smoking to that and it was a fine mess of phlegmy dialogue from this pair. One line in particular: I’ve a fine British hunting dog, he’s such a fucking mess. You get the picture. The server appeared to be quite tired of the behavior.

After this restorative interlude, it was a nicer ride to Aljezur, where we found the Arte Bianchi restaurant. I enjoyed the pasta alla amatriciani, with guanciale, while Dan had a perfectly made sourdough pizza. We complimented the chef, as we both make all our own bread and pizzas, and I make most of my pasta.

Finally, we had the wind in our favor as we turned east, first to Marmalete and then to Monchique. A cat 3 climb got our attention with several 10-12% ramps. One car per 5-10 minutes made for enjoyable travel. After marmalete, we split as Dan wanted to go to a pharmacy, so he took the direct route. I turned left onto a narrow winding road that circumnavigated the west and north sides of Foia. I was in my happy place. I love riding in mountains. This road had terrific flow, great pavement and zero cars. One climb (see picture) gave me pause, so I stopped to eat a bar ( Vélo Forte) to put more gas in the tank.

As it turned out, the effort expanded was relatively minimal. I’ve noted this glitch before with ride with gps in Europe telling one that there are crazy steep hills to go up, only to have them vanish. Me thinks it’s where they place their waypoints to measure elevation.

I got caught in a short sharp shower which I quickly rode out of, remembering Bernard Hinaults famous saying: if you’re cold ride harder. Coming into Monchique, I “enjoyed” the wet and mossy cobbles whilst navigating to our hotel, which is just a couple hundred meters from the Velochique bicycle cafe. After showering and washing kit, we had a glass there, and witnessed a brief and intense hailstorm. It’s not supposed to rain anymore. We shall see. Our hotel tonight is the Casa Dos Batalim. They have four rooms total, no meals served. Tomorrow we continue east to Tavira, taking a train again to avoid the built up part of the Algarve around Portimao.

Lunch at Arta Bianca in Aljezur. Very nice people and terrific food.

After lunch climb. It was actually 12% in places. This climb was 9 km, rising 350 meters.

View of the ocean and Portimao. Better to see it from afar than ride through it.

Not quite a French balcony road, but a nice flowy road around Foia.

Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 450 km (279 miles)

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