Forty Years Later

An Attempt to Rephotograph in Bagan

Forty Years Later

I was first in Bagan 40 years ago when I shot this first photo. I have always wanted to try to find the exact spot again to rephotograph it but I've always forgotten to bring along the old photo. This time I remembered and we went out among the temples searching. It wasn't too hard because of the big whitish temple in the background to the left is definitely Thatbyinnyu (c.1190AD), at 61 meters it is the tallest temple in Bagan.

The smaller temple in the foreground (which appears bigger than Thatbyinnyu) is Shwegugyi Temple. King Alaungsithu built the Shwegugyi Temple in 1140 in 7 months and 7 days right in front of his royal palace. It is believed to have been King Alaungsithu's personal temple and when he was dying he was carried into it and died there.

I love this temple a great deal because it is of a size that is more personal. I always have a very nice feeling when I'm inside this temple. I also like that its stairway is at the right front corner which is unusual.

We were thrilled when we found the location but I was unable to stand in the exact spot because there is a fenced off area where there is an ongoing archaeological dig of the foundations of the ancient royal palace. But even if I had been able to go to the exact spot the resulting photo would show only trees and each of the temples would not have been visible at all! I'm really happy to see that there are so many more trees now. I'm kind of amazed they have grown so well because Bagan gets an average of only 5 inches of rain per year this and the soil seems to consist of only sand (being right next to the very sandy Irrawaddy River).

The little tree right in front of the temple is still there and is huge and beautiful. Its large branches gracefully reach out and cover most of the upper portico in front of the temple shading all the vendors. They must love that tree because none of the big drooping branches have been cut and instead propped up with poles. Being very much a 'tree guy' this makes me very happy to see - when people respect trees.

Things have really changed in Bagan since I was there in 1979. Now there are seemingly millions of tourists, vendors, parking lots, buses, you name it. I was the only tourist in Bagan that day in 1979. I stayed in someone's house very near to where that photo was taken in fact it's possible I took the photo from the upstairs of their house with a zoom lens. Little did I or anyone else know that the house sat on top of the ancient royal palace. Bagan is a very mysteriously wonderful place and has always been one of my most favorite places in the world every since I visited there so long ago. When I first went there I had the most unusual and intense feeling that I had been there before.

lovebruce

Thatbyinnyu Temple on the left and Shwegugyi Temple centerstage. I shot this photo with Kodachrome 25 slide film in June 1979.

What it looks like today. Granted I couldn't really replicate the exact position and it was a rather dull day in terms of lighting. But things have really changed. There is now a road leading millions of tourists to Thatbyinnyu Temple.

There are four large Buddhas in Shwegugyi Temple, one facing each direction. This is the main one in the front which you approach first.

The very worn sandstone stairs at the corner of the temple.

Looking at the front of Shwegugyi Temple. Note: the logs stacked to the right are from the Tanaka tree. Tanaka branches are ground on stones and the resulting powder is mixed with water and it seems that just about every woman in Myanmar (and some men) apply it to their face as both a sunscreen as well as cosmetic. It's a totally mesmerizing exotic cosmetic to me which I love.

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Jacquie GaudetI am amazed when I read recent travellers' descriptions of Myanmar. I spent a week there in 1986 (the maximum amount of time then permitted). How it has changed!
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5 years ago

Bruce LellmanTo Jacquie GaudetThe big four tourist sites have changed tremendously in the past 12 years, so much so that we don't really want to go back to those places. But there is a lot more to Myanmar where no tourists ever go and it can be only 100 meters away off the beaten path.
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5 years ago

Jacquie GaudetAt the time I was there, tourists were not allowed anywhere except Rangoon (mandatory for the first and last days), Pagan, Inle Lake, and Mandalay. It was impossible to get to all of them in the time allotted so I skipped Mandalay. It was my first time in Asia and only my second trip outside North America and I wasn't about to break any rules.
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5 years ago

Jen RahnIt makes me smile to know that you found the location of your 1979 photo .. and so cool to see the comparison and the happy 2019 trees!
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5 years ago

Bruce LellmanTo Jacquie GaudetThis was the same for me on my 1979 visit. I took the night train to Mandalay and went up to Maymyo (Pyinn U Lwinn) for a night, back to Mandalay for one night. Then I flew to Pagan (Bagan) and stayed there two days and one night before flying back to Rangoon (Yangon). I remember writing to my parents telling them how outraged I was that I had had to spend $90 in a week just to see some of Burma. I'd say it was well worth that amount of expenditure because the experience made a huge impression on me that has stayed.
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5 years ago