Day 25: Termoli to San Severo

October 1, 2023

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Our plan was to sleep in today so that we wouldn't reach San Severo too early. However, I think we were eager to get moving again. Up at 6, out the door at 8. We were rewarded with perfect riding temperatures. There were hills to tackle, and while we did sweat up them, we cooled off very nicely on the descents.

We loved the sea, and we loved our time in Termoli, but we embraced the new landscape with open arms. After a few kilometers on the state road, we veered westward onto country roads with little to no traffic. There were a lot of ups and downs, but no grades over 6% or so. Just pleasanr riding, and panoramic views all day.

Whenever we pass a scene like this, I think about how our desires would be reversed if we were traveling by motorbike. We'd ride from hill town to hill town all day. I think we have more fun on bicycles, even if we don't get to visit some of these places.

About two hours into riding, we started to get quite hungry. There were no towns for us, no bars, no markets. Someone had kindly marked a rest stop on our route in Komoot, and I suggested we hold out another 6km until we reached it. This time, our patience paid off. We not only scored our choice of extra long picnic tables, we also enjoyed a cool breeze that kept the flies away while we ate the sandwiches we had so cleverly packed. It's such a blessing to leave the mosquitos and other biting creatures behind. We no longer look like we have chicken pox. What a relief!

If that wasn't enough, this spot also has some history. There are some ruins, and there is a little church. I took photos of the interpretive signs to translate into English later.

Update: Here's the translated text of one of the signs.

THE TEVERNA OF CIVITATE

The Taverna di Civitate is located along the streets of the Trattura Regio L'Aquila-Foggia, on the right bank of the Fortore river at the point of an important junction where several roads converged to be able to overcome the waters of the river and near the ancient settlement of Tiati-Teanum Apulum-Civitate. Alfonso of Aragon had the building built as a barracks. Here, in fact, the guards who carried out supervisory activities on FIDA payments were housed. Subsequently transformed into a post office, a place of rest and refreshment for travellers, and finally used as a Customs station of Mena delle Pecore during transhumance. The building, rectangular in shape, is divided into two levels: a ground floor and a first floor. The ground floor is divided into several rooms characterized by brick arches placed like a knife whose joints are arranged radially. The roof of the building is not preserved. The Tavern is accessed through a portal characterized by a round stone arch with a machicolation above; to the right of the portal an inscription on three sandstone panels reports the tolls to be paid for the men and herds in transit.

I tried a new strategy today: keep touring bike routing on, but reroute whenever the pavement ended. I understand that there are risks involved, but today it worked. The last and longest climb of the day involved a turnoff onto a dirt road, and it may have been fine, but I also wanted to grab a cold drink and take a break at the top. A new route promised to keep us on pavement, and passed through a town, albeit with a 5km distance penalty. We took it.

Another road house, slowly crumbling, with "SS 16" painted on the side. We were a long way from the current SS16 by this point.

I assume this is prickly pear cactus. Very colorful!

We huff and puff our way to the top of the big hill, and there's yet more climbing to get to the town. No steep grades, thankfully. I figured that it would be a sleepy place, but it's anything but. At least not Sunday at 12:30. People congregated around the church, cars and trucks and tractors filled the narrow streets, and there was us, riding around in circles, just making traffic worse. We couldn't find an open bar, and the market was on the verge of closing for the day. We backtracked to it, grabbed a couple of items to tide us over, and parked at the first shady spot we could find. The whole ordeal was far more stressful than I would have predicted.

A younger me would've just said "screw it, it's all downhill from here, who needs a rest?" Descents can be draining too, especially when cars are whizzing by at regular intervals (we were no longer on a country road). I'm glad we stopped, and I'm glad we were done with climbing for the day.

We were routed onto one last dirt road, but we were so close to San Severo, I decided to give it a try. It was rideable, and while olive orchards flanked us, so did massive piles of rubbish. It was pretty darn depressing.

We found pavement again and rode to some apartment blocks on the outskirts of town. These led to an unusually wide boulevard, which we followed to a ring street that brought us to our apartment for the evening.

Our host, Giuseppe, is super nice, and although he speaks little English, and us little Italian, we spent a good 20 minutes getting to know each other a little bit. I've mentioned this before, but as far as private rentals are concerned, I'm partial to the ones whose owners live in the same building or next door. I like the personal touch. We're happy and comfortable here.

I get the impression that there isn't much to do in San Severo. We did our usual grocery shopping, and with a kitchenette, we did our usual eating in. Afterwards, we walked to the city center. There was a "beer and food" festival going on, but being Sunday evening, it was just wrapping up. We did enjoy the 18th- and 19th-century buildings. The streets reminded me of the French Quarter in New Orleans.

I spotted a kid wearing a Lupin III t-shirt, as well as a vending machine with artwork from the manga, so I guess it's a thing here in Italy? I'm only familiar with the character from Hayao Miyazaki's involvement with the anime series.

Tomorrow will be a flat ride to Trinitapoli, followed by two nights in Bari. After today, I think we're excited to visit more of Puglia's interior, but who can say no to the sea?

Today's ride: 61 km (38 miles)
Total: 1,404 km (872 miles)

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