September 20, 2023
Day 14: Vicenza to Camping Fusina
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Today is the day we finally reach the Adriatic. If we stick to our plans, we'll see a lot of this sea. There's no hurry to dip our wheels in the water and declare ourselves cross-country heroes. Although we are. Of course we are!
I think we have enough road miles under our belts to exclaim, once and for all, that the rumors of Italian drivers being unpredictable are completely unfounded. They won't sit around waiting for you if you're passive, but once you assert yourself, they yield without fail. Like other continental European drivers we've encountered (sorry, UK), they never fail to notice and respect us. We're super happy about that!
Pedestrians are equally aware, moving over hastily when I ring my bell (ding dong ding!). I almost feel guilty when they do, especially when it's a shared path. They have priority, after all, but there is a collective understanding of the principle of momentum, giving us pedal-pushers the opportunity to keep those wheels a-turnin'.
Today's route was flat as a pancake, with the weather fairly reasonable. Regardless, we chose to depart with our host at 7am, both because we had some distance to cover and because it was really the most convenient arrangement for everyone. Since she kindly offered us breakfast, we were rarin' to go!
We stopped at the basilica again (it doesn't look like one) for a couple of morning photos, then merged with rush hour traffic out of town. What a way to start the day!
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We finally found a cycle path. I'm pleased to report that we were off roads for most of the route when not in cities.
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We finally found a bike pump with the holy trinity of features: functional, pressure gauge, Presta attachment! I'd been riding way below my preferred 80psi all this time. It feels different now. Not necessarily better, but different.
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The old city in Padova is different than others we've seen so far. Sidewalks are built under the houses. Not only does this keep them safely separated from the street, but it offers protection from the elements as well!
After Padova, we found ourselves riding almost entirely along canals and rivers. It started to feel like France, and as it got even more watery, like the Netherlands. What's next: Venice?
When not along water, we were on roads dotted with old villas, some of which were in great shape. Some, not so much.
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We went in search of a bar for our last break of the day. This brought us a little off the beaten bike path to the village of Dolo, which seems to be a little touristy but is still very charming. We refreshed ourselves with gelato, espresso, and cold water. Aah, the good life!
As we reached the coast, it became more desolate, industrial, and uninviting. Then just as quickly, it started to get that maritime vibe, with working and pleasure craft appearing in equal measure.
Then, finally, the campground! Two sweaty bike tourists in need of a shower found their little corner of paradise. Our routine, which seems to me like a form of self-flagellation, is to fully set up camp before getting cleaned up. It makes sense, I suppose, but it's uncomfortable and leaves us more vulnerable to mosquitos.
Strangely, I'm finding this trip tests my mettle in a way that's different than past tours. We've generally avoided times and places that are hot, humid, or buggy. Nothing we experience here is unbearable. It's just enough to remind us that we're a long ways from Seattle. We're starting to adjust, I think. Maybe.
Regardless, it's off to do the tourist thing in Venice tomorrow. We have a decent weather forecast and we're going in with little knowledge. What we've heard is that it's a "one-day wonder". Perfect! That's how much time we have for it!
Today's ride: 78 km (48 miles)
Total: 760 km (472 miles)
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