To Talaia d'Albercutx and back: up to the watchtower

April 23, 2013

Climbed 446 metres, 1463 feet

Weather: sunny and windy, high 20 C

For our last day ride from Port d'Alcudia we wanted to go back to the Peninsula de Formentor and up to the ruined watchtower, Talaia d'Albercutx, that we had glimpsed from the Mirador de Mal Pas. It was a bit windy when we set off on the waterfront bike path to Port de Pollença, and then up the steep grade to the viewpoint. We were sheltered for most of the way by the hillside to our right, but when we turned, a couple hundred metres from the mirador, a strong headwind slammed into us.

A fitting sculpture in Port de Pollenca on our way to the watchtower

At the mirador, several busloads of tourists, mostly seniors, had just disembarked and were struggling to walk to the nearest overlook. When Eva tried to accompany them, she was turned back by the ferocious wind, afraid of going too close to the edge with its low wall high above the sea. The refreshment kiosk was not doing much business today, but we bought an ice cream sandwich each and huddled in the lee of some bushes to eat them. We wondered whether we could possibly manage to climb up another 400 feet or so to the tower at the very top of the ridge, where the wind would surely be even stronger.

We decided to give it a go. For some reason, the paved road to the tower was hardly travelled at all either by cyclists or vehicles. Most visitors seemed intent on travelling on to the lighthouse at the Cap and ignored the route uphill from the mirador. The grade was reasonable and the lack of traffic was great. Wind gusts hit us as we climbed above the mirador before the slope of the hill sheltered us again. Then, rounding a curve higher up and away from the protection of the mountainside, we were amazed to feel very little any wind at all. This lack of wind continued the rest of the way to the top! The views were spectacular all the way, and at the end of the road we parked our bikes near a couple of ruined stone houses and took turns climbing the short footpath up to the tower. A few other cyclists were around and only two cars, and virtually no wind!

We needed our windbreakers in the strong gusts on the way up

The road near the top of the climb, looking out along the Peninsula de Formentor

When we went to Cap de Formentor lighthouse, the road passed to the left of the green fields in the valley in the distance and then through a tunnel just to the left of the sharp peak

Eva climbing the last slope to the tower

The watchtower--Al on left with the white helmet

After a good look around we headed back down, thinking that perhaps the wind had died everywhere, but that was not so. It was still blowing fiercely at the mirador, and the ice cream kiosk, actually a van, had packed it in and driven away. Buses were still arriving, and we felt sorry for the tourists if this was their one chance to see the views from the mirador. We were glad we had walked to all the viewpoints when we were here last week.

The view down to the mirador parking lot

A closer look at the mirador parking lot far below

Continuing downhill to Port Pollença we were buffeted by gusts of wind and had to ride carefully to avoid being pushed into traffic. We stopped several times to let cars and buses go by. We had hoped to eat lunch in Port Pollença at Na Ruixa, a restaurant recommended in Tomas Graves' book as one of the best places on the island for traditional pa amb oli. We rode up and down the back streets of town and finally found the place, but it was closed at lunchtime, so we continued on to the beach area where there was one restaurant after another.

We found an outside table sheltered from the wind and shared a thin-crust pizza and large salad—very nice. Then we rode back to Port d'Alcudia for the last time along the very familiar bike paths and lanes feeling nostalgic already and congratulating ourselves on another wonderful day of cycling.

Our lunch stop on the beach at Port de Pollenca. If you enlarge the photo you can see whitecaps on the water.

We looked back at the road and the tower from the coastal plain

Tonight's dinner included baked chicken, spinach salad with dried fruit, and chocolate mousse and profiteroles for dessert. We said our goodbyes to the pleasant and capable dining room workers, and returned to our room to do some packing before our departure tomorrow. Rain was predicted, and we hoped we wouldn't get too wet before reaching Palma.

Today's ride: 49 km (30 miles)
Total: 819 km (509 miles)

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