A semi-truck load of bicycles in cases and boxes had arrived at the storage facility, and this morning as we prepared to leave, dozens of cyclists were busy assembling their bikes
We went back to Campanet today by a slightly different route than last time. When we got near Buger, instead of climbing into the town, we continued west and then turned north across the motorway and circled up into Campanet from the west. This was all on quiet lanes, but unfortunately the last kilometre or so before the town featured very rough pavement.
Arriving in Campanet, we made a beeline for the Bar Es Club in the main square. We were both looking forward to the pa amb oli with grilled squid that Al had eaten there last Sunday. In the meantime Eva had discovered the book, “Bread and Oil” written by Tomas Graves, the son of English poet laureate, Robert Graves, who resided on Mallorca for 50 years until his death in 1985. Tomas has lived all his life on the island and has written an interesting book exploring Mallorcan culture through its food. Bread and olives are two cornerstones of the local cuisine. The traditional Mallorcan bread is made from coarsely sifted wholewheat flour using a starter instead of commercial yeast, and no salt. The dough is fermented for a long time (12 hours), then shaped into long loaves, and baked in a wood-fired oven. Nowadays the bread is usually made in a more streamlined manner, but is still whole grain and crusty. For pa amb oli, the loaves are thickly sliced and the cut sides rubbed with olive oil, coarse salt, and halved garlic cloves. (If tomato is rubbed on as well, it's called pa amb tomàquet.) The most common toppings are cheese and serrano ham, but other meats and all kinds of seafood can be used. The dish is always accompanied by olives, often two or three different types. After much experimenting, we were developing quite a taste for pa amb oli! The squid ones at Bar Es Club were as good as ever and very filling.
Back in the square in Campanet with the bar Es Club and the great pa amb oli under the green awning ahead on the right
After lunch we headed downhill from Campenet towards Pollença through the same scenic valley that we had travelled on Sunday, riding past vineyards and meadows with sea views in the distance. As we got closer to Pollença we decided to take a less direct route than last time to avoid the 11% grade near the golf course. It turned out to be a very indirect route, and we cycled perhaps an extra seven kilometres around the base of the bowl below the town and gradually uphill into Pollença. Even though it was further to ride, the cycling was very pleasant. We were tired when we got there late in the afternoon and were gratified to find apricot and chocolate pastries still available at the Il Giardino bakery. We rode home with our booty through the now familiar lanes and had time to clean up and rest a bit before dinner.
Looking along the valley northeast of Campanet toward the Mediterranean and the hills of Cap des Pinars beyond Alcudia
