Porto Cristo to Cala Ratjada: eastward ho!

April 9, 2013

Climbed 236 metres, 774 feet

Weather: sunny, high 21 C

After breakfast we packed up, collected our bikes from the storage room across from the hotel, and headed uphill out of Porto Cristo. Our route today meandered north along the coast to Cala Ratjada, the easternmost town of Mallorca. Much of the route was on dedicated bicycle paths and the rest on small roads, so traffic was not a problem, even though we passed through a series of very built-up tourist enclaves. These resort areas are a mix of high rise hotels and holiday apartments and are not at all charming. We couldn't imagine staying here, but apparently the accommodations are full up during high season--mainly with German tourists.

Small roads along the coast provided ideal cycling conditions

We eventually turned inland away from the coast and resorts and joined the main highway heading north. Al knew that there was a tunnel several kilometres ahead and there was also a small road climbing up and over the hills which would allow us to bypass the tunnel, but add extra distance and elevation. When we reached the turnoff to this bypass, several cyclists headed up that way, but soon more cyclists came along and continued on the highway towards the tunnel. This encouraged us to bypass the bypass and try our luck with the tunnel too. It turned out that the tunnel was shorter than anticipated and downhill all the way. Even with a cement truck right behind Eva, it was a quick and easy ride.

After about 28 kilometres we climbed up into the tiny picturesque village of Capdepera with its fortified hilltop castle. The Castell de Capdepera was built in the fourteenth century by Mallorcan king Sancho to protect the coast from pirates. The main square, Plaça de L'Orient, at the bottom of steps leading to the fortress was so pleasant looking that we decided to stop there for an early lunch at a shady outdoor table. We both chose the salade d'Orient: sautéed cod, pickled garlic, roasted red peppers and toasted almonds on mixed greens with an Asian-style dressing, unusual and delicious. After café americanos we felt well fortified for the last few kilometres of riding to Cala Ratjada, where we would stay for two nights. We planned to walk overland back to Capdepera tomorrow to visit the castle without our bikes.

Our very pleasant lunch stop in the square in Capdepera

Fish salad with asian style dressing called salade d'orient

Cala Ratjada is the largest town on the east coast and a favourite German package resort destination. When we booked our accommodation (in January) 20 of the 40 hotels listed on Booking.com were already full for our early April time period. We stayed outside the centre at Hotel Cala Gat, in the pine woods above the attractive Cala Gat beach. The receptionist greeted us in German (before switching to fluent English) and told us to put our bicycles in a storage area underneath the elevated swimming pool deck. The door to this storage area wasn't locked, but it seemed secure enough, so we left the bikes there locked together.

A two kilometre walk uphill from the hotel leads to the Punta des Farayos lighthouse, and we strolled up there after getting settled in our room. The wind blew harder and harder as we climbed, and by the time we reached the lighthouse we could hardly stand up against it. We didn't linger, and the way down was easier because the wind was behind us.

The lighthouse at Punta de Farayos, the eastern most point on the island

We cleaned up and sat out on the shady balcony of our room for a bit of reading and computer time. In the evening we walked downhill to the Cala Gat beach and along the scenic waterfront footpath to the harbour, lined with scores of restaurants. There were not many people about and we chose a place with a view of the harbour, where we were the only patrons (perhaps because it was early). We shared an endive salad with goat cheese, mushrooms and grilled apples and then sole with prawn sauce for the main course. We walked back to the hotel along the seaside path and arrived just before darkness.

The beach in the little cove at Cala Gat near our hotel

Sculpture formed from old anchors along the shoreline walkway into the town centre of Cala Ratjada

Today's ride: 32 km (20 miles)
Total: 147 km (91 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	2
Comment on this entry	Comment	0