April 11, 2015
Saturday, April 11 - Estremoz to Evora: Through the mists of time to an old Roman city
THE pleasant owner had a nice breakfast of a Portuguese bun with meat and cheese, sweet breads and tea. I gobbled it down, loaded the bike, clunking away on the cobblestones.
The fog closed in as soon as I was up into the town square. And it confused the gps which kept reversing itself by 180 degrees. It is a good thing I studied the map before I left so knew which way to go.
As I got out to the road I kept looking up and could see the sun through the mist, but the mist just would not lift. I made sure to be extra vigilant. I stayed right to the white line or the shoulder if there was one and kept a constant watch in my nerdy mirrors.
The mist did make the terrain even more interesting. Rolling green hills covered with twisted old cork trees, sheep and some grapevines. Within about ten km of Évora the sun came out so I even had to remove my coat. I could see the city in the distance on a hill. At the edge of town was the old viaduct then cobblestones through twisted medieval streets to my hotel. I am just steps away from the main square.
I stored the bike across the hall from my room, pulled off the bags then went on a quest for lunch. There was a place about 40 m away with nobody outside, so I plunked down and started to write. The server came over with a menu ... finally, I ordered carne de porco å alentejana. Something I loved in 1982 and 2003. Loved it again along with only a glass of vinho tinto today. He asked if I wanted a glass, a half litre or a whole litre. I chose the smallest. As I find is often the case in European restaurants, the meal seemed small when it arrived. Lef me tell you, it was not. I was full.
I took a walk through old parts of the city to see medieval sections, the Roman Temple of Diana, wandered through a medieval fair, and returned to the town square where a number of performances were taking place on a huge stage. One in particular was a group of 49 or 50 people, aged from about ten to twenty. They played simple instruments that seemed Afro-based and similar to what I have heard in Cuba. They danced, they drummed, they sang, they did incredible acrobatic feats. It was excellent.
And that is the kind of day it has been.
I may or may not head out after dark to get some night AP's. For those not in the know, that means artsy photos.
- Évora, Portugal
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- Évora, Portugal
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- Évora, Portugal
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Casa dos teles €20
Today's ride: 47 km (29 miles)
Total: 467 km (290 miles)
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