August 16, 2017
Saint Vincent Would be Pleased: Day 9 - Chateaunuef-sur-Loire to Chavignol
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Walking down the main (and really the only street) in Chavignol this morning (which is actually tomorrow based on journal dates .. confusing ... yeah), we saw a small historical picture describing and annual celebration in this very small, but very well known town (in the cheese and wine world) in honour of St Vincent d'Espangne. That's the same guy we saw in Angers Cathedral being skinned, stuffed with coals and then being thrown in the ocean. We thought we would dedicate Day 9 to him. I think there will be more on this trip too.
Today was a great day. We were still pretty damp when we got up in Chateauneuf and it was very misty when we set off, reasonably early (for us). We were waiting at the doors of the Super U market when they opened at 8:45, procured our breakfast yogurt and bananas and then set off down the road. We figure we had about 115 km to go today and that we'd take in whatever sights looked inviting along the way.
We also made a few routing changes. The Eurovelo route looked like it wound its way around farms and villages away from the river, while the rural D roads took a more direct path along the river and canals and through the small villages. There was next to no traffic on these roads and we found it more interesting than the EV route, so that's what we did for most of the day.
By mid day we reached Sully-sur-Loire where we stopped for coffee / tea and a snack. As we were about to leave town, we noticed that the very nice Chateau was open, and there were no crowds. We parked our bikes and went in. There were about 20 other people there and it turned out to be a very well preserved Chateau with great depiction of the underlying medieval architecture with well appointed period rooms. We had a great tour, much better than the circus at Chambord!
After Sully, we were back on the bikes with great riding along the canals to Sancerre /Chavignol. As we reached these towns we finally got some hills. Sancerre sits a top a prominent hill, with it's slopes covered in vines, and producing some of the most delectable white wine possible. It's a very beautiful area.
Chavignol is in a small valley about 3 km away from Sancerre, equally vine covered with the village split between cheese (the eponymous Chavignol goat cheese)and wine.
The hotel we are at is exquisite, La Cote des Monts Damnes. Beautifully renovated building, great room (that soon got turned into a cycle touring wash house!) and a wonderful dinner at the bistro featuring goat cheese and wine. Very local, like about 50 meters!
This is the first real internet we've had in several days so I've done a marathon update. I think that's going to be the norm from now on. While camping the wifi is largely useless for uploading anything so I'll be doing updates when we get to a hotel or a warm showers host, maybe every three to 4 days.
The day ended up being very sunny and hot and with the climb into Chavignol the sight of the Hotel was a god send. Looking at the remarkable setting, we paid a little homage to St Vincent as well!
Song of the day:
Un Jour by Hindi Zahra .... this came up as we were approaching Sancerre. Very lovely song by this great French/Moroccan artist.
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Today's ride: 102 km (63 miles)
Total: 666 km (414 miles)
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