August 30, 2023
Van Buran SP, MI to Warren Dunes SP, MI
Day 5
I set the alarm for 6 am and I had all my stuff packed by 6:30 am. Next I helped Cameron pack and ate some breakfast. It was colder again this morning requiring a jacket (58 degrees) as we set off on the Blue Star Highway at 7:30 am.
It was a blustery morning with the wind out of the north again and our objective today was an organized private tour of the St Joseph Lighthouses and we had to be in Benton Harbor, 22 miles away by 10 am.
My hopes were not favorable that the tour would happen with the current wind conditions undoubtingly causing waves to wash over the pier out at the lighthouse. We arrived at 9:30 am and as expected the waves were high and I had received an email stating the tour was cancelled.
The plus with the wind was we arrived in Benton Harbor in plenty of time with the tailwind had the tour gone ahead.
Just before Benton Harbor we rode out to the coast to what looked like a new park area.
I took a few photos of the distant lighthouses and walked out on the pier, but made a hasty retreat as some rogue waves chased me back.
This is the second time I been unable to reach this lighthouse as I encountered similar condition in 2021.
St. Joseph Pier Lighthouse
The second lighthouse on Lake Michigan was built at St. Joseph in 1832, shortly after the first in Chicago. This stone lighthouse was replaced in 1859 with a two-story dwelling with a square tower rising through the peak of the roof built on a bluff.
In 1870 a new pierhead beacon was built on the south pier along with an elevated walkway. In 1881, the pierhead beacon was transferred to the end of the north pier. In 1885 a taller frame tower was built on the north pier replacing the original. as this new light was sufficient for navigation, the old 1859 lighthouse on the bluff was decommissioned. However, the 1859 lighthouse was re-established on July 10, 1889.
The two present lighthouses were constructed in 1907 and in 1908 a duplex was built for the keepers which still stands today.
The 1859 lighthouse remained in operation until 1919. It was sold to the city of St Joseph and housed a number of organizations until it was unfortunately demolished in 1955.
The fourth-order Fresnel lens was removed from the inner light in 2012 and taken to the Heritage Museum Cultural Center in St. Joseph, where it was restored and placed on display along with the fifth-order lens used in the outer light that had been removed in 2005.
The piers at St. Joseph and Grand Haven are the only ones on the Great Lakes that retain their range lights and catwalks. The St. Joseph Pier Lights were featured on a postage stamp issued in 1995.
While out at the beach I found the old lighthouse keepers duplex housing unit. It was being renovated and unfortunately looks likely to lose some of it’s historical integrity.
With the lighthouse tour cancelled we rode from Benton Harbor across the St Joseph river into St Joseph for a 2nd breakfast, arriving at Thornton's Home Town Café at 10:15 am.
With Thornton's not having internet we decided to move down the road to the Chocolate Café on State Street where I had another coffee and updated the journal. The St Joseph Lighthouses have 3 stamps so next on the agenda was to determine which stamps I already had. We rode up State Street to the Pure Michigan shop to get a stamp, next door was the Candlestick Maker and I confirmed I had the stamp already so that left the stamp at the Heritage Museum which I visited in 2021. Confused as I know I had been there in 2021 and I thought I got the stamp already. So we rode over but they were closed. I will need to contact them later to find out I guess.
As we rode out of town on Lake Blvd, we rode along the Maritime Heritage Trail stopping to read the plaques. Here I found the site of old lighthouse which was unfortunately demolished in 1955 for a parking lot. Another blemish on humans thoughts on progress.
By 1 pm. we were riding out of St Joseph on tough going Lakeshore Drive. It was a busy road with a narrow shoulder and in my opinion an un-necessary middle turning lane. The road could have easily accommodated bike lanes instead, with turning bays where needed.
Once clear of St Joseph we reached some quiet traffic roads as we passed Grand Mere State Park. The freeway frontage road Thornton Drive eventually ended at Livingstone Road but instead of following Bike Route 35 on the Red Arrow Highway, we headed inland so we could reach a grocery store.
2:30 pm. we arrived at Harding's Market and stocked up. Stocking up so much we needed to eat food there to make room for our new supplies.
We arrived at Warren Dunes State Park at 4 pm. and took the option of the cheaper rustic camp not realizing how far away these sites were from the modern camp with showers.
But after arriving we were happy with our quiet site (205) away from any other campers.
While erecting my tent I broke my tent pole but was able to use the sleeve to get me through the rest of the trip.
Dinner was sausage links (by popular demand) and potatoes with vegetables. After the dishes were washed and put away, we cycled out to have our showers.
Once back to our campsite it was into the tents early as mosquitoes were about. Early night for all.
2 maps today as I accidently shut my GPS off in St Joseph.
Today's ride: 45 miles (72 km)
Total: 242 miles (389 km)
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