September 1, 2023
Indiana Dunes, IN to Chicago, IL
Day 7
Today was going to be a big day with 70 miles ahead of us so we were up early to get a good start.
We will pass by 3 lighthouses in Indiana, but won't see any of them. Gary Harbor Breakwater Lighthouse (1911), Buffington Harbor Breakwater Lighthouse (1927) and Indiana Harbor East Breakwater Lighthouse (1935) (the twin of Port Washington Breakwater, WI). All these lighthouses were built to support the massive steel industry surrounding Gary, IN and are inaccessible by land.
We left our campsite at 7 am. and rode down Hwy 12 again turning onto North Mineral Springs Road. Our first stop was the Indiana Dunes National Park, Chellberg Farm, but as the visitors center wasn't open there really wasn't much to see.
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We then rode around to the Bailly Homestead and had a quick walk around.
From the homestead we were able to transit through the town of Porter where we picked up the Prairie Duneland Trail that would take us first Southwest around Gary, IN. and would lead us to the westerly direction, Oak Savannah Trail. Then we would shorten our day by taking Main Street in Griffith to reach the Erie Lackawanna Trail. Griffith also promised us a diner for a 2nd breakfast.
The Prairie Duneland Trail was nice going with tree cover but was marred with roots creating bumps in the asphalt. And much that I like riding trails, urban trails have many street crossing so you never really get going before you have to slow and cross a street. We did however cross under 3 freeways, 94 in Porter and 80 and 65 on the Prairie Duneland Trail.
We arrived at the Corner Café Restaurant at 10:15 am and sat down to a cooked breakfast feeling like we were making good time as we were 30 miles into our day. We had great service from a very elderly waitress.
Right after breakfast we turned north east on the Erie Lackawanna Trail.
We eventually run out of trail on Sibley Blvd in Calumet City and I had tried to route us the best way to get to the Pullman National Historical Park on streets. Somewhere on Sibley Street we also crossed over into Illinois but we didn't notice.
The plan was we would ride up and over the rail tracks on Burnham Avenue, turn on S Brainard Ave, ride through a neighborhood then pick up another short trail on S Brainard Ave that would take us to a bridge over the Calumet River. From there is was only 1/2 mile of 4 lane road and we would turn off on a little used frontage road alongside I94. Although a 4 lane road, google maps didn't show this 1/2 mile to be that busy.
Here's what went wrong, the trail was on the left of the road and ended at the bridge so we crossed the bridge on a sidewalk that looked like no one had been for the last 10 years. Broken glass and debris everywhere. Once over the bridge the sidewalk disappeared into brush and had a guard rail so we had to get down onto the road but there was a 8 to 10 inch drop off and we also needed to get back on the right had side of the road. We waited for a break in the traffic coming towards us and when this happened, we lifted our loaded bikes down and onto the road ready to cross to the right side. However, we never got a break from the other directions and now traffic started towards us again after a light change. Past the point of no return we started riding down the left side towards the opposing traffic, which for the most part tried to get over into their left lane to avoid us but we ended up causing a massive slow down and it was the hairiest 1/2 mile I have ever ridden.
Safely down at the next traffic light, we were able to cross and get to the safety of the frontage road where we didn't see another car for the 3 miles we rode along it.
From there is was a relative easy mile to the Pullman National Historical Park.
As the Pullman rail car company grew, there was demand to build a company town and new factories. Built in 1880, the houses were mainly row houses with the factories and building set further north. Numerous other buildings for the town were also added, a hotel, church, market square, firehouse and other needed service buildings. By 1883, 8000 people lived and worked in the town.
First stop was the visitors center for our National Park stamps and they gave a us a bunch as they had the old stamps before the site changed from a National Monument to a National Historic Park a few years ago.
After looking at the exhibits we went across the street to get a stamp from the newly opened Pullman House Project and then rode past the Hotel Florence and through some of the neighborhood. Overall the houses although very old are well kept up, some with lovely front gardens and obviously the owners take pride in the neighborhood.
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We spent about and hour at the park leaving at 2:15 pm.
Getting back to the lake wasn't quite as difficult as we went a different way. In hindsight, probably the way I should have came. But it did come with some adventure, climbing the 103rd Street bridge over the rail line we kept on the sidewalk and Cameron spotted a Illinois license plate that he just had to stop and pick up. It was still attached to a piece of the front of the car so I needed to get my tool kit out to remove the screws. Safely stowed in his pannier, we crossed the Calumet River on the 100th Street bridge which had a bike lane.
Once back on the Lake Michigan shoreline, we backtracked some to get to the Illinois-Indiana Boundary Marker where we took some photos. By this time it was 3:15 pm. and getting hot but we are on the home stretch.
Although we have been in Illinois for the last 3 hours, we feel like this was our moment to pass into our 3rd state on the trip.
We pass by Calumet Park and take an opportunity to take a distant photo of the Calumet Harbor Lighthouse which is actually in Indiana as the breakwater it sits on goes well into the lake.
Calumet Harbor, IN
A distance view is available of the 4th lighthouse, Calumet Harbor built from quarried stone in 1851.
Shipowners asked for the light to be discontinued in 1853 as at the time the Calumet River mouth was inaccessible and the light was confused with Chicago. The light was extinguished on July 28, 1855.
With improvements at Calumet Harbor, the light was reactivated on September 7, 1873.
A tower was erected on the north pier in 1876 and the lens from the old lighthouse was used and the old lighthouse was extinguished again. In 1898, a new metal tower was erected along with a fog signal building.
A two-story triplex was built for the station’s keepers in 1903.
After the construction of the breakwater, a new metal combination lighthouse and fog signal building to mark the end of the 6,714-foot breakwater was completed in 1906.
After the construction of new detached breakwater, the light and fog signal building from Holland Harbor was placed at the southeast end of the detached breakwater and went into operation on June 4, 1937.
In 1995, the two-story, breakwater lighthouse was demolished and a new tower erected in it's place. A similar tower marks one end of the detached breakwater while the end is marked with the lighthouse relocated from Holland Harbor.
Once we cross the Indiana - Illinois state line we will pass by more distant lighthouses, 68th Street Crib (Dunne Crib) Lighthouse & the Four Mile Crib Lighthouse
Tomorrow we pass by, William E. Denver Crib Lighthouse & Wilson Avenue Crib Lighthouse
Then is was the last miles into Chicago downtown with a few stops for skyline photo ops.
Hot and tired after a long day we arrived at our hotel The Palmer House at 5:45 pm. I booked early with points so it was nice to get a downtown hotel on the first day of Labor weekend. And thanks to my Hilton status I was able to skip the extremally long check-in line and get our keys and get to the room.
After quick showers it was time to take an evening stroll and find some Deep Dish Pizza.
But first we made our way to Millennium Park where we took in some jazz from the Jazz Festival taking place, and next a walk over the BP Pedestrian Bridge.
Later we found ourselves on E Madison Street dining al fresco at Pizano's Pizza & Pasta. We ordered the medium Deep Dish Pizza and had no trouble finishing it off as we realized, after the 2nd breakfast we didn't really stop to eat lunch.
Later we went to the Millar Pub next to the hotel for another beer. Then back to the hotel and bed.
Today's ride: 69 miles (111 km)
Total: 353 miles (568 km)
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