After several days of seeing the sights in well travelled areas, we were hungry to explore an area that was off the beaten track of tourism. We took the bus to the Western District near the Golden Horn. We walked along (and atop) the ancient fortified stone wall and wandered the back streets of this culturally rich area. We feel that we have entered a different place in time as we are immediately immersed in the daily lives of the residents who predominately originate from Eastern Turkey and embody a more conservative way of living. Head scarves and burkas are the norm and we see a more modest, impoverished level of living with a strong sense of community. In this area is the famed Chora Church, built in 527 AD and now a museum. Hopefully we'll find it as we meander through these backstreets.
Much money is being spent in this district to uncover and restore historical areas of interest. Here archaeologists and historians are working on the Anemas Dungeons which date back to 491 AD. A number of deposed Emperors were tortured and imprisoned in this prison. Unfortunately construction has come to a stop at this time.
As we walked in this neighbourhood, a man jumped up and said "Chora?" and he pointed in a different direction. So, off we went. Hopefully we will find the church, but getting lost here is so interesting.
Remains of the Palace of Constantine Porphyrogenitus where archaeological work is ongoing. Unlike sacred buildings (like mosques) which are rarely torn down, many of the palaces have been destroyed or replaced to reflect the tastes of the time. Over time, this palace had been used as a menagerie for exotic animals, a brothel and a poor house for destitute Jews.
Looking at this modest home from the wall, I could see that it had survived earthquakes and time, yet it was meticulously cared for. I watched the woman cleaning and sweeping with much care.
This part of the wall had a fence - unlike the section further back that was left natural without any barriers. At home we are so concerned with safety and liability that exploring like this would not be possible.
A fellow tourist from Iraq who was also climbing and walking along the stone wall. This man spoke a little English and was determined to take Barry's picture. However he had never used a digital camera before and the photo didn't work.
Barry climbed for a great view. At this point in a day of much climbing, I gave my knees a rest and stayed at ground level. It was also interesting for me as school had just gotten out for the day.
Chora Church - we found it once we realized that in Turkish it is called Kariye Cami Muzesi. Built in 527 AD, it was known as Church of the Holy Saviour Outside the Walls, and after the Conquests it became a mosque. Now it functions as a museum.
Chora Church is famed for its mosaics and frescoes which date from 1312. Interestingly, when it became a mosque in 1511, the mosaics were covered over which helped to preserve them.
The mosaics tell intricate stories of Christ and Mary. Pictures take the place of written stories and these mosaics are considered masterpieces of the Byzantine era.
Chora Church is small in comparison to other buildings of note in Istanbul. Yet, the magnificent mosaics and frescoes, and its extraordinary survival in spite of earthquake, the Conquest and time contribute to make it one of Istanbul's gems.
Sidewalks are narrow and crumbing in Istanbul - most people walk on the narrow roads and share the space with traffic. It seems to work. We need to remember to use sidewalks when we go home.
Suleymaniye Mosque, atop one the "Seven Hills" of Istanbul in the distance. Istanbul was built by the Romans with a mosque or Byzatine structure on each of the seven hills creating a distinctive minaret studded skyline.
These moms were visiting their kids at recess. They spoke no English, but offered us candy (and Barry shared ours as well) and we quickly became friends. The principal came out to meet us and he explained that Barry had been a teacher.
A salad bar - Barry was so happy... however, see the round tomato like veggies? ...they are fiercely hot peppers. After eating one, Barry turned a vivid colour. Should be interesting to see how he does.
