October 10, 2012
Bratislava,Slovakia to Donilikten, Hungary
Checked out of our apt.with plans for Barry to take the front wheel of our bike to Kaktus Bike Shop and get a new tire. The tire is showing significant wear and we are concerned that it could leave us stranded if we don’t deal with it. We decided not to ride to the shop as it is out of the city quite a distance and is located on a busy road with no room for bikes. So, by default I got to stay put and wait with the bike and our belongings, reading and using wifi at McDonald’s . We are still surprised to see McDonald’s in the old cities of Europe, particularly Bratislava, which has an extraordinary old town full of charm. Unlike larger cities, the charms of Bratislava are so accessible and all within walking distance. Embassies sit along side cafes and museums and grocery stores.
We are surprised by the extreme wear on the front tire - it must be from Barry’s foot touching the wheel when we make a sharp turn. Our usual preference is to use Schwalbe tires, but here in Slovakia, there is only Specialized or a Czechlosovakian brand, and the shop recommended that we stay away from the Czech brand. In anticipation of the cold and rain, we have bought Endura waterproof booties to keep our feet dry and warm and I got a windproof warm jacket. I think we are now ready to cycle on into October weather.
We have so enjoyed staying in the centre of Bratislava, stepping out our front door to the Opera House and other historic buildings. It is always bittersweet to leave a place that has touched you, but we must move on.
We met such friendliness and an eagerness to help in our short time here. There was a significant language barrier but that didn’t deter our interactions.
Met an inspirational and interesting couple from New Zealand as we were stopped on a corner in the old town. They approached us to ask where we were from and where we were travelling, but as we talked, we realized that these inveterate world travellers had many more interesting experiences and travels to share. They have been retired for 20 years, travel every year on their own.... this trip had taken them to Russia, the Balkan states, Poland, Slovakia and then Morocco. We so enjoyed their zest for life and sense of adventure.
The ride today followed a very pretty flood plain and dyke as we left Slovakia. Before we knew it, we were in Hungary. We felt a difference right away from Slovakia. These political borders can feel arbitrary as we ride through, but there is a significant and noticeable change nonetheless.
Hungary is one of the few countries not to use the Euro, their currency is the Florint. We were relieved to see an ATM in a village. Hungary will present some new challenges as we need to learn new money (1 euro = 270 florints), a new language and new customs. Isn’t travel great?
The weather is remaining clear but cold, so we opted to look for a zimmer or guesthouse. In Donilicten we saw a painted sign on an old stone house, knocked on the door and were able to get a room - 5000 florint (18 euros) for a comfortable huge room with cooking facilities and lots of aging charm. We are fascinated by the large 5 foot tall old ceramic tiled wood heater in our room. Our host arrived later with homemade dessert to welcome us - a charming place. We think that he must be an artist as our room is filled with lovely artwork. We are unable to communicate with him as he only speaks Hungarian (and very fast!) and our little dictionary is so limited without any phonetic clues. When I managed to say thank you in Hungarian, he grabbed my hands in appreciation.
Walked to the corner shop for a few supplies and had another culture shock. The products are also new to us and the pricing is confusing. Anyway, we managed to find a few supplies - we’re set for dinner and breakfast.
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Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 3,184 km (1,977 miles)
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