Besancon to Clerval

September 1, 2012

We had a late start as we were up late working on the journal and trying to locate the leak in one of our Big Agnes Q-Core mats.
We have learned that one should not lie on the mat on the ground as the material is quite thin and can easily puncture. This is the case with most lightweight air mats. However, this is a minor complaint as we love the mats - they have given us the most comfortable sleep we have ever had on any sleeping mat. We had to submerge the inflated mat under water in the bathtub and look for air bubbles. We think that we have solved the problem.

The breakfast at the hotel was excellent. All the coffee we could drink and a huge variety of breads, fruit, ham, yogurt, etc. It was Saturday, so there wasn’t any construction on the roads in Besancon and the roads were quiet. It also helped that it wasn’t torrentially raining. It is chilly (about 15 degrees) and overcast - it will rain today...

Today’s route was absolutely splendid. It followed the Doubs River all day. The surface of the path was consistent - smooth pavement. We are presently in the Doubs River Valley which extends from Dole to Montbeliard and is typified by soaring green hills with farms dotted up the hillside and soaring rock cliffs on the other side of the river. It feels like we are getting close to Switzerland.

There were fewer services and villages to stop at on the way. At Laissey, we found the first available cafe/bar. We went in and it was full of locals drinking at the bar and cycle tourists eating at tables. Listening to other cyclists who had come from the opposite direction, this was only the second place open that day along the route. Our taste has changed with the changing weather - today we enjoyed a wonderful hot pot of tea instead of a cold beer.
We met a wonderful trio of Swiss cyclists who were on their way to Dijon and then to Paris. Two of them had electirc bikes. They are the first Swiss cycle tourists that we have met and it made us excited to get to Switzerland.
The weather looked like it was going to rain...dark black clouds looming. We had our rain pants on and off throughout the day in anticipation of a full downpour. We only had light showers.

When we got to Hyvere-Paroisse, the weather had deteriorated and we tried to find accommodation. The Logis hotel was very strange. It looked completely empty, was quite rundown and the manager enquired if we had a reservation - as we didn’t , he told us that he was full. A very strange vibe here. So, on we went to Clerval - only 8 km but we had to go up and up and up through farmland and away from the river. Granted, the scenery was beautiful and the vistas were stunning, but by then the heavens had opened up and we were in very heavy rain. The campground looked like it was only for caravans so we rode on to the local chambre d’hote and were able to get their last room. It is in a lovely home, run by a retired chef and his wife, and we were very appreciative of the dry, warm hospitality they extended to us. The cost was only 55 euros and included an extensive breakfast in their dining room. We really appreciate the homey touches and thoughtful way they have set up their home.
Went for a walk to find some dinner and we encountered some confusing local customs - the pizza restaurant was open and people were getting pizza, but the owner was adamant that we couldn’t get anything until 9 pm?? so we went across the road to the Kebab shop and had an amazing meal. It was our best kebab meal yet and was set in a shop the size of a large bathroom. The owner proudly had an article about his establishment from the local paper framed on the wall and was most concerned that we enjoyed his food. I had Kebab Alexandre which had a yummy homemsade tomato sauce and yogurt atop the meat.
Clerval, a surprising and unexpected highlight that we didn’t know existed when we started out this morning.

So cold and it's only August. It will be good to get on the bike.

The citadel in Besancon, a Unesco Heritage site, is an impressive site and dominates the skyline.

We kept meeting this family along the trail.

The landscape has changed dramatically from mainly flat rural landscapes to verdant, hilly terrain.

We, like the other cycle tourists enroute that day, stopped in one of the only open and available cafes.
We enjoyed meeting these three from Switzerland who were on their way to Paris.

A spontaneous rest stop and what a great view.

Rock climbers scaling the cliffs across the canal.

This cow had a lot of personality - he's really enjoying his meal.

These geese were hard to ignore as they loudly demanded our attention.

Today's ride: 57 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,809 km (1,123 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	1
Comment on this entry	Comment	0