We awoke in our hotel, Ishak Pasa, ready to enjoy the lovely breakfast buffet, freshly squeezed orange/pomegranate juice and Turkish tea that is prepared for us every day. At breakfast, Rabia always makes us feel welcome and brings us fresh juice as soon as we arrive. We feel so fortunate that we chose this hotel. It is wonderfully situated in a historic setting, comfortable with thoughtful touches, and, best of all, the people here are so friendly and hospitable. There is no query or problem that they can't solve.
We thought we had a plan for the day - take the ferry to Kadikoy and visit the Asia side of Istanbul. But, when we went down for breakfast, Tahsin asked us what we were going to do today. He said that when the sun is shining you must take a trip to one of the Prince’s Islands.
And he was right - for 5 Lira ($2.50), we had a scenic ferry trip through the islands for 90 minutes to the largest island, Buyukada., a magical and beautiful place. There are no cars on the island - transportation is only by horsecart, bicycle or walking. This gives the island a wonderful sense of quiet and calm. Even the dogs lie in the middle of the road - not bothered by us or the horsecarts. It’s hard to believe that the bustling and traffic congested streets of Istanbul are only 20 km away across the Marmara Sea.
The ferry was full of locals out for a day trip - there were very few tourists. The ubiquitous Turkish tea was available on board and was being served to most of the passengers by a lone hard working man who delivered tea throughout the voyage, calling “chai...chai”. We were impressed by his stamina and work ethic...tea served in glass tea cups on a tray for only 1 lira.
Like Istanbul, cats are everywhere, roaming freely - yet, they look a bit worse for the wear here. Somehow, the wild cats of Istanbul have a healthier look. We have been fascinated by the affection and food given to the cats on the streets. We have not seen this in any other city we have visited.
In Byzantine times, Princes and deposed Monarchs were sent here to live in convents and monasteries, hence the name, Princes’ Islands. The gingerbread Victorian villas from the mid 19th century remain and give an elegant air to this pretty island. Pine forests, palm trees and bouganvaillia add to the charm. It is indeed a sleepy place.
We had the option of hiring a horsecart (fayton) but we rented bikes to tour the island and climbed a very steep hill to the Greek Monastery which gave us a spectacular 360 degree view.
After riding our tandem for the past 4 months, it was fun to rent single bikes for the day to bomb around the island. The bikes were not in the best of repair, but it was a joy to feel the speed of a bike that has no gear.
We travelled back to Istanbul in the evening and were able to appreciate the spectacle of Istanbul’s illuminated skyline from the water - a fitting end to a special day.
The tram stop is near our hotel - it takes us directly to the ferry terminal.
Waiting for the ferry - cats here are always ready for affection. Every seat in the waiting room was taken except the one with the cat on it. No one bothered the cat because the seat was taken. However, the cat and I came to an agreement.
A large group of Greek Orthodox priests and their friends were on the ferry with us. They had come up to the monastery to have a short service and then sightsee around the island.
We don't know these fellows - they wanted us to take their picture for them and before we knew it, we were posing with them too - fellow cyclists unite!
Fasuli's is known for their beans - a good meal. We've eaten here a few times. I really loved their grilled chicken as well....and their homemade yogurt...etc.
As we walked home, this young man came out to talk. He was wearing multiple Canadian flag pins -his girlfriend lives in Vancouver and he is going there in a few weeks for a holiday.
Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles) Total: 4,034 km (2,505 miles)
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Scott AndersonWe’ve always wanted to see Istanbul. Maybe some year. Regarding your comments about the cats though: if you ever get the chance, you should see the documentary film Keri, about the cats of Istanbul. Absolutely charming. Reply to this comment 5 years ago
Barry BartlettTo Scott AndersonHi Scott,
We would love to see Istanbul again. It is one of our favourite cities. The documentary sounds wonderful.
All the best,
Barry Reply to this comment 5 years ago
