November 12, 2022
Day 67: Nimes to Tarascon
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Our room at the Kyriad was fine, in the sense that since our camping days we define anything bigger (and dryer) than a tent as fine. But really, it was approximately equivalent to Ibis Budget. After some really terrific Kyriad experiences, we had decided it must be a quality chain. But in fact it's random, and the property labelled Kyriad could be almost anything.
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I stayed there once upon a time. I have the same impression that you do of the hotel, but I found the staff very friendly and accommodating, more than just hotel friendly, if that makes sense. Staffs change, though.
Cheers,
Keith
2 years ago
2 years ago
We set aside about an hour and a half to both get a sense of what Nimes is all about, and to track down its half dozen major attractions. Jumping to the "what it's all about" part, we know Nimes has a lot of industry (and used to be big in textiles - denim, for example, is deNimes), and we did see all those tall white buildings from the distance yesterday, but the Nimes we experienced had some different features. First, there was a dramatic mixture of wide open expansive squares, and ultra narrow laneways. Next, in the squares you were likely to find beautifully preserved or restored Roman buildings. And on this Saturday morning, there was no traffic downtown - really, almost none. Finally, the stores in the streets were a mixture of sort of normal quality, shoes or clothing, and very humble stuff, like hairdressers, laundromats, or basic pizza takeout. There was no Chanel or Prada or etc. to be seen at all. Not even close.
We liked Nimes, for its calm streets, open aspect in general, and interesting but not overwhelming sights.
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One of the first things we spotted, not exactly a major monument, was a cafe. The Cafe de la Bourse is across the street from what we take to be the Stock Exchange, but the photo shows the Arena, which is pretty cool.
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One of the city's greatest treasures is the "Maison Caree", a Roman temple from approximately the year 2. Imagine, something of that age standing here.
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We wanted to track down at least the major monuments that the city lists, and one of these was the Cathedral. The GPS brought us to it, alright, but it was hard to recognize. It is both partially covered in scaffolding, and otherwise surrounded by buildings which have been snugged up tight to it. This is something that also happened to the Arena, but those encroaching buildings were later demolished.
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We stumbled on an interesting and well presented bit of the Roman past, in the form of the La Porte Auguste, which was one of the original gates of the city. The illustration shows the bit that is still standing in the context of the former whole.
Finally, the Arena, built at the end of the first century AD, not long after the Coliseum in Rome.
A lot restoration work has been ongoing with the Arena. You can see it below, with those inner arches. We suppose it's an issue about how much to restore. Too little and the thing crumbles to ruins, too much and you lose the thing you were trying to preserve.
This large billboard describes preservation efforts.
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Time to leave town! But we'll pass this 1851 statue, with the unique aspect that the main figure is wearing a hat made of the Roman Temple.
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One shop was a baker, with some local specialties. Fougasse is a typical local bread style. It is usually sculpted or slashed, but this first ything pictured is just bun shaped. It's claim to fame is flavouring with orange water. The baker brought out a bottle of the stuff for us to smell.
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I had made a track for getting us out of town. Neither of us particularly trusted it, but it worked. Despite Nimes not having bike lanes to speak of, we got out without too much traffic hassle.
Our plan was to get to Margueritte, a town about 10 km out of Nimes. From there we would proceed east until hitting the Voie Verte that runs north south from Uzes to Tarascon. Going north on this would take us to the famous Pont du Gard. A couple pf quick photos and we would turn around and zoom down to our B&B in Tarascon.
Well, we got to Margeurittes, and found a market going on! According to our policy, we dove right in.
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Passing through the market, we entered Marguerittes, which was a little bigger than we had supposed. I have been calling Dodie my Ventoux compass, because she always points to Mont Ventoux. Sure enough, here she is pointing even to Ventoux Street!
Marguerittes was definitely looking Provencal, from the style of houses and plants. We found another Persimmon tree, and an orange tree. Some readers will laugh that we find an orange tree special, but try to find just one in BC!
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We had headed up the Voie Verte to reach the Pont du Gard. This is an aqueduct built in the first century, that has been on the UNESCO world heritage list since 1985. It is 275 meters long and 48 high, with three sets of superimposed arches.
My expectation about this was that there would be a viewpoint and maybe some billboards, or even an interpretation centre. So it would be a few quick photos and out of there. How wrong I was. Even in normal times, this is one of the most visited sites in southern France. But this day, they were running a huge marathon, with various distances, including Nimes to Uzes, and terminating here. There were thousands of people, a lot of them runners, most wearing the official tee shirt. Sometimes we just stumble into things like this!
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We left the crowds and set off back down the Voie Verte. Look at the beautiful trees along the way.
I stopped at one tree, thinking it could be a kumquat, from the orange fruits. But no, they were hard and had no scent. That would make this just one of zillions of flowering shrubs. But what is it?
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Arbutus (strawberry tree)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Arbutus_unedo
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We had what might me our last encounter with Camargue horses, as we came upon a small group, with two young ones. As it always the case, they came over to the fence to see us, and allowed us to pat their noses. They are so calm, not at all skittish, and can be almost dog like in wanting to be patted.
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Here are the church and the castle at the entrance to Tarascon.
Our B&B is called Mas Armeln. It can trace its origins to 1734. Tomorrow we are promised breakfast in a farmhouse portion of the buildings that is also extremely old. The couple that runs the place are of German origin, but the main boss is Hugo, the Daschund.
Today's ride: 65 km (40 miles)
Total: 3,109 km (1,931 miles)
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As you’ve probably figured out, we love Nîmes. Calm, much to see and do, and great Provençal food. Only problem is the summer temperature which can hit 42! Too hot for northern blood.
Cheers,
Keith
2 years ago
2 years ago