Day 55: Montchanin to Chagny

October 31, 2022

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Our modern hotel followed up its other conveniences with what we rated as the first bone fide ten jammer breakfast in France. In fact there were two elements not even found in German ten jammer: an orange juice machine of the type I got turned away from yesterday, and a frozen yogurt machine. Although it can easily be argued (with any bathroom scale) that we do not need a ten jammer, it really does put you out on the trail with a lot of energy.

As it happens, today's trail did not particularly need much energy, as it was set up to be the easiest and most pleasant day possible. The reason was that we were only hopping on flat paths or canal the few kms over to Chagny, where we there was a planned meeting with old friend Keith Klein and his wife Sue. It was to be a lunch meeting, to boot, so no danger of hunger today.

As we knew it would be, we had absolutely perfect and protected pathway all the way to Chagny.

We were not without company on the trail. For example, these guys.

Around St Leger we not only got some picturesque views, but also a hint that the beautiful world we had been floating through for the past days was about to change, to something equally beautiful, but different.

The first sign of change was that our white Charolais suddenly developed brown blotches (or you could think of it that way if so disposed).

The next sign of change, more legitimate than the blotchy cows, was the advent of vines on hills. Perhaps surprisingly, only a small part of Burgundy produces wine grapes, and within that part there are many sub-regions. We had entered one of those sub-regions, and could expect to see a lot more vines for the next while.

We had arranged to meet Keith and Sue down at the canal, at the base of the main street of Chagny. We were a little early, so we headed up the street for a little preview of the town. We immediately perceived that although the town was suitably small, and potentially cute, it did not really live up to the standard of other small and cute towns in Burgundy. For on thing, there was just a touch too much traffic on the street (though still not a lot), and the buildings did not quite line up to have their photos artistically taken. Then after only a few blocks, they gave up and became apartment buildings. Admittedly they also became a Casino supermarket, which we do appreciate.

Across from our hotel was this rooster, an obvious landmark for meeting people at - like the fountain in Munich, but not quite!

We met Keith and Sue on cue (or a little before) at the canal and arranged to regroup at the restaurant across from the rooster, where Keith had made a reservation.

Keith pointed out the hotel across the street, where we are NOT staying. It apparently has three Michelin stars. I wonder what that translates into in terms of its breakfast jammer rating?

Here is the interior of the Caboulot, Keith's chosen restaurant. This is just what you want to see when going for a "Plat du Jour". This was also a significant moment for us: During Covid, thinking about the prospect of someday going on another bike tour, the prospect of sitting in a great but crowded place like this again seemed totally remote. Now at last, here we were.

The chance to not only be in a place like Le Caboulot, but to be there with Keith and Sue was a real highlight. We have so much common experience and interest, that we sat there chatting for two or three hours - until the restaurant basically threw us out.

Keith and Dodie share something humourous.

Although we had loosely promised not to eat our Charolais friends, we must admit that they came out tender and really flavourful in the hands of Le Caboulot. This is just what you want in a Plat du Jour. And that bread - so good!

Here is coffee in a size that you do not want to keep ordering in an effort to fill your Thermos. (I tried that once!)

Once back on the street, and mellowed out by good food and friends, I tried lining up some Chagny buildings again. Below is what I got.

On saying farewell to Keith and Sue, we still had time before our hotel would open. This was the chance to address an issue that had been plaguing Dodie since England. (Yes, it was England's fault, everything is England's fault). Like the proverbial frogs in the heating water, we had been watching the fittings on Dodie's handlebar (like brake levers, shifters, bell, computer, and hand grips) go progressively out of whack in terms of angle. Dodie began to complain of worsening wrist pain, which was already an underlying problem. Our frog-like solution was to keep loosening and twisting things, one by one, when we had time. But finally the frogs realized that it was the whole darn handlebar that had been twisting, until by now it looked like it had been installed backwards.

Now that we had some time, we loosened every darn thing, including the bar, and reinstalled all correctly. Why had the bar slowly twisted so far out of whack? England, we say. Too bumpy!

The hand grip was the last thing we readjusted. It shows that the bar was more than 90 degrees, almost 180, wonky!

As we stood in the street in front of our hotel, playing with the handlebar, some kids came by, trick or treating. Yes, this is the night! Dodie found them some nicely wrapped "Pick Up" bars in my handlebar bag, and helped make their evening. They are so cute!

Today's ride: 38 km (24 miles)
Total: 2,359 km (1,465 miles)

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Suzanne GibsonAnother CycleBlazer get together! Sounds like you had a great time. Excellent pictures, too!
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2 years ago

Keith KleinHi,
It was great to see you two. I hope the ride south goes great. I’ve got a few observations:
I need a haircut, badly! If only there was more hair to cut…..
The food was exactly what I had hoped. A real French meal with good food , good friends, and great conversation.
Chagny is not a pretty village. It’s a railroad junction and if you had cast your eyes across the port you would have seen one of the biggest tile works in France. But the town is prosperous.
Thanks for coming by. I really enjoyed the meeting and the meal, and Sue did too.
Cheers,
Keith
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2 years ago