September 11, 2024
Day 9 - Nantes to Cholet
With a lunch stop in Clisson
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Back on the bike today!
We ate our breakfast-in-the-room of coffee/tea and oatmeal bars, and were out the door by 1030. We made a quick stop at the Decathlon in town to buy Rich an extra layer. He had brought only short-sleeved jerseys on this trip and today was the coldest day yet!. So we were on the road shortly before 1100.
Our plan today was to follow a bike route labelled “V102” on the OSM Cycle map from Nantes to Clisson. From there we’d strike out overland to our final destination in Cholet. I couldn’t find a name other than “Nante-Clisson” for the “V102” online, but it seems to be part of a set of cycle routes that emanate from Nantes in several directions, kind of like tentacles.
Following the V102, we weaved our way across the Loire, past a bus station, and onto a riverside path along the Sevre river, which enters the Loire at Nantes. The path was better suited for walking than biking, but the views over the river were beautiful. We hopped off and on the bike a few times to navigate the tandem-hostile path furniture.
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6 days ago
The route wound along the river and eventually turned away to start a long wander through forests and fields. It had rained last night, so we were constantly dodging puddles, pedestrians, and trail obstacles. It was kind of fatiguing, to be honest!
Eventually the V102 put us back on streets as we climbed away from the Sevre and the suburbs of Nantes. We emerged into cornfields and a series of gravel roads, interlaced with bike paths and pieces of low-traffic paved road. There was a ton of navigating involved, which was pretty fatiguing for Robin.
We were pushing to get to Clisson within the lunch window, which also increased stress and fatigue. So we were both really ready for a break when we swooped down the hill below the giant chateau at Clisson.
Now we had to find somewhere to eat. Along the river, there were a couple of restaurants, but they looked too fancy for us. A likely-looking cafe didn’t serve food. So we had to push the bike back up the hill to the town behind the chateau, where there were more options.
Next to the church, we found the lovely Dolce Caffe, which was perfect for us. A couple of foccacias hit the spot, and with a final coffee for Rich we were ready for more riding. First we investigated the church and a beautiful covered market, before descending back down to the old bridge and then climbing steeply out of town to the east.
Freed from the clutches of the V102, the riding improved greatly. We were on low-traffic roads all afternoon as we worked our way across to Cholet. We passed through 3 villages, but really didn’t stop for long anywhere. We evidently didn’t take any pictures either!
The road was in good shape, but there was a lot of up and down. No long climbs, but a constant set of climbs and descents that kept us working.
We rode triumphantly into Cholet about 1700. There were panels around town advertising La Mie Caline’s special cookie deal, and Robin was sold. We stopped at La Mie Caline on the beautiful main square and shared a giant chocolate chip cookie. Looking across the street, we decided we liked the look of the Grand Café. So dinner reservations were made on the spot.
Wiping the crumbs on our faces, we walked the bike a few meters up the street to the San Benedetto Best Western Hotel. The lovely staff found a place for Schnooks in the covered parking lot behind the hotel (free), and we were quickly into our room.
Robin wants it noted that the shower in this hotel is the best one we’ve had so far. She’s also impressed by the small touches that make the room easier to live in, like extra towel hooks. I think she’s contemplating a new career as a hotel room designer. She certainly has strong opinions about the subject!
We walked back down to the Grand Café a bit early and prowled around the square. Cholet is a big city - about 54,000 people. Yet we knew nothing about it. The downtown area is really nice and looks much cleaner and more prosperous than Carcassonne, our local big city of the same size. Kudos to Cholet!
The Grand Café met our expectations and more! Classic French dining in a brasserie setting. Robin had a lovely St Jacques risotto, and Rich had (again) Moules Frites. A perfect dinner in a great, casual setting. Highly recommended.
Today's ride: 73 km (45 miles)
Total: 475 km (295 miles)
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6 days ago