July 7, 2008
Day 56: La Crosse, WI to Wabasha, MN
74.42 miles, 5:10:44 Ride Time, 14.37 Average Speed, 24.64 Maximum Speed
Because I had glanced at the maps the night before, and saw that the route appeared to be mostly flat and easy today, I was in no real hurry to get out early, and didn't leave until 9:30.
Following the official Northern Tier route would have required me to backtrack through downtown La Crosse and cross the bridge again into La Crescent, Minnesota. I didn't do that. Instead I rode North a few miles and got on the "Great River State Trail", thus staying in Wisconsin for another 20+ miles. As soon as I entered the (mostly crushed limestone) trail, I saw a sign that said a trail pass, costing $4.00, was required. I didn't feel like riding around looking for one of the places that sold the passes, so that didn't happen. The lack of a pass added a (very tiny) bit of excitement to the morning ride - what if someone in uniform stopped me and demanded to see my (nonexistent) pass? Most likely, I would dash away at 14 mph, about the fastest I could ride on the slow trail surface.
The trail was nice enough, although it eventually grew boring, as bike paths always seem to do. After Trempealeau (pop. 1,319), and several irritating stops where the trail crossed the road(s), I entered a wildlife refuge, where the trail surface became mostly gravel, and the bugs became horrific. I missed taking a few potentially interesting photos, because the bugs swarmed me as soon as I stopped for even a second. As the gravel surface became rougher, I started to get paranoid about getting a flat tire - I hated to imagine stopping here to change a flat while dealing with the mosquitoes and other bugs.
The trail ended near Marshland, and after not having seen another person in about 20 miles, it seemed a little jarring to get on a busy (but mercifully smooth, paved) road, and cross into Minnesota at Winona.
For the rest of the day, I was on a flat stretch of US 61, which mostly hugged the Mississippi River, and, while busy, had a good shoulder. It started to rain as I approached Minneiska (pop. 116 - "Heart of 'Old Man River'"), and since I hadn't had lunch, I stopped at Buck's Bar and Grill, a friendly place, where there was only one other customer this time of day.
By the time I finished my cheeseburger and fries, it had stopped raining, so I got back on US 61 for a while, until my maps had me turn onto a county road. This would add a few extra miles, but it was a break from riding on the shoulder of the busy 61, and it didn't appear to involve any unnecessary hill climbing. It was a pleasant enough diversion for ten miles or so, although the sky grew dark by the time I got back on US 61.
The sprinkles became a steady shower by the time I reached the outskirts of Wabasha (pop. 2,599), and because I never stopped to put on the rain clothes, I was soaked by the time I got into the town. I stopped and asked some people for directions to the motel/campground, and when they expressed shock that I would ride in the rain (it wasn't like it was a severe thunderstorm, or anything like that) - I briefly launched into my usual "I've been riding since Florida, in all kinds of conditions, blah blah blah" spiel, before realizing that nobody, even (or especially) me, really cared.
It was raining harder when I arrived at the Wabasha Motel and RV Campground, where the teenage girl at the front desk informed me it cost $30 to camp there, which didn't make much sense, since one of their motel rooms cost less than twice that. There wasn't a grownup around to negotiate with, and it was continuing to rain, so I got a room.
Later, the sun came out and I rode into downtown Wabasha, which was attractive enough, but almost totally devoid of people in the late afternoon. While I was riding around, I spotted something which seemed comically out of place in the neat-as-pin downtown area: A beat up old Pontiac with various messages spray painted on it: "Pink Floyd", "For Sale $2.00", and, on the hood, "Put Your Titties On The Glass." I had to laugh while I imagined the sort of rebel who would ride (and park) this piece of junk around town, infuriating the tourism-conscious elders of Wabash. I briefly fantasized about tracking down the car's owner, paying him the advertised price of $2.00, and driving the thing back home to Kentucky.
After stops at the Dairy Queen and a supermarket, I rode back to the motel, but not before seeing, and photographing, an odd sign that instructed me to "Enjoy Wabasha, Treasure Chest of Leisure Living". "Treasure Chest of Leisure Living?" What does that even mean?
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Today's ride: 74 miles (119 km)
Total: 4,036 miles (6,495 km)
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