June 20, 2008
Day 39: Albion, NY to Evangola State Park, NY
87.26 miles, 6:31:42 Ride Time, 13.36 Average Speed, 29.57 Maximum Speed
I woke up and decided that I wouldn't continue on the Adventure Cycling route today. I had been worrying for days - no, weeks - about the route through Niagra Falls and Buffalo. Because I didn't have a passport (or a birth certificate with me), I couldn't follow the route briefly through Canada, and even if I could, I just didn't want to deal with the the tourists and the undoubtedly horrible traffic.
I got on Google Maps and spent about 15 minutes working out a plan to detour around the whole thing. I would zigzag southwest for about 60 miles and hook up with the Adventure Cycling route in Lackawanna, thus completely skipping maps 129, 128 and 127 of the Northern Tier. I quickly scribbled the directions on some scrap paper, got everything together, and left the depressing motel.
I immediately felt much better as I headed south out of Albion; the whole Niagra Falls/Buffalo thing must have really been weighing on me. As I rode away from the Erie Canal, I was quickly in the middle of mostly flat farmland. As usual lately, it was mostly cloudy, but I was so happy to have taken charge of my own destiny, I wasn't even worried about getting rained on.
Most of the morning I was on nice, quiet country roads - thanks, Google, for the "Avoid Highways" checkbox!
It got increasingly cloudy, so I stopped at a grocery store in the tiny town of Alabama and talked to some friendly local people, while I put on my rain jacket and prepared myself for the expected downpour. The rain never started, but I left the jacket on for a while anyway; it was another chilly morning.
Traffic had gotten a little heavier by the time I arrived in Alden. It wasn't even noon, but the schools were already letting out - was this the last day of school before summer break? While I waited behind one bus, a couple of the junior high school kids riding on it made rude gestures at me, which I studiously ignored.
A block later, I stopped at a convenience store to buy a candy bar, primarily to qualify for the "customers only" bathroom there. There were signs posted at the door stating that no more than two "students" could be in the store at the same time, and that all backpacks must be left at the counter. Ah... my initial negative impression of the children in Alden, based on the gesturing kids on the bus, was apparently correct: They are shoplifting little brats.
While I verified the next turn on my route with the lady at the counter, a mullet-sporting guy overhearing our conversation offered the unsolicited advice that I "should be careful in Lackawanna - it's a rough town." Uhh... STFU buddy; no one asked your opinion, and I don't need you spoiling my good mood.
The fifteen miles or so to the "rough town" went quickly; this part of the state really is flat. I rejoined the Adventure Cycling at a busy intersection in Lackawanna (pop. 19,064) around noon; it was the usual bicycle-unfriendly nightmare, and I resorted to riding on sidewalks for a while.
Later, on the advice of some helpful local people, I deviated from the Adventure Cycling route again, and detoured around some of the busy, under-construction downtown streets. I got back on the route on "Big Tree" road, and in a few miles it dead-ended onto Lake Shore Road, and there was Lake Erie sparkling in the sun.
It felt like a different day - sunny and warm - so I celebrated by stopping for lunch at Tim Horton's. This is a Canadian coffee-and-doughnut chain that I'd been seeing the last few days. It was pretty good, although I missed my Dunkin' Donuts smoothie.
I spent the rest of the afternoon on Lakeshore Road, which (obviously) mostly follows along the Lake Erie shore. After a milkshake stop in the touristy but low-key town of Point Breeze, I rode a few more miles to Evangola State Park and got a nice campsite not far from the lake.
The campground was nice, although none of the pop machines worked, and the only thing available in the park office was Faygo (?!). The slacker guys working in the place weren't too helpful, and refused to refund the $.75 I'd lost in the Pepsi machine. Apparently a decision of that magnitude required management approval.
The evening passed pleasantly; at dusk I walked to the edge of the campground, where someone had helpfully cut an unauthorized opening in the chainlink fence that blocked access to a cliff overlooking Lake Erie. I took a few pictures there, being careful not to fall over the sheer drop and ignominiously end my bike trip.
A great day.
Today's ride: 87 miles (140 km)
Total: 2,844 miles (4,577 km)
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