June 6, 2008
Day 25: Middletown, NY to Interlake RV Park (East of Rhinebeck, NY)
76.61 miles, 5:55:57 Ride Time, 12.91 Average Speed, 32.85 Maximum Speed
It was looking rainy when I checked out of the Middletown Holiday Inn, which, in addition to having some of the friendliest staff, was also probably the cleanest hotel in which I've ever stayed.
I easily found my way back onto the route, thanks to some excellent directions supplied by Criss. Within minutes, a misty rain started. It was a chilly morning, and I wore both my arm warmers and my new wind jacket. Despite the less-than perfect conditions I was happy. The reason: The irritating squeak/squeal that had been driving me crazy the last couple of weeks was finally gone!
I had been apprehensive about riding again after crashing, but I felt confident within a few miles. Of course I stopped at the scene of the accident, and took the obligatory photograph of the ugly tire-swallowing cut in the road.
After Bloomingburg, the route was on quiet country roads. The misty rain continued, but it was not unpleasant (in fact, I would look back fondly on the light rain and overcast sky as I rode in 90+ degree heat the next few days).
I stopped at a country store in the little town of Dwaarkill for breakfast, then continued on some more country roads which were supposed to take me near a largish town called Shawangunk; strangely, I never saw any evidence of the town. Not sure what that was about.
After New Paltz, a busy college town, I was back on quiet roads until the outskirts of Poughkeepsie, a large town that I had been dreading dealing with.
The first problem: How to get across the Hudson River. You're not allowed to ride a bicycle across the Franklin D. Roosevelt Mid-Hudson Bridge; you're supposed to walk the bike on the pedestrian walkway of the bridge. I couldn't figure out how to get to this pedestrian walkway - the only way I could see to the bridge involved riding with lots of traffic to a toll booth plaza. I wasn't up for that. I first asked a couple of ladies at a car dealership, and, although they didn't know how to get to the walkway, they offered to drive me across the bridge. I wasn't that desperate (yet - although I told them I might be back to take them up on their offer), and I eventually found a policeman who explained it to me (there's a deadend road that leads to a small park that is the entrance to the pedestrian walkway).
The bridge is impressive. There was only one pedestrian on the walkway, and although he said he was sure no one would care if I rode across, I decided to follow the rules this time.
After the usual complications finding my way out of the downtown area, I rode on the shoulder of a fairly busy road to Hyde Park. I skipped the Roosevelt-related tourist attractions and had lunch at McDonald's instead.
Rhinebeck had an attractive, old-timey downtown, but I was anxious to get to the day's destination, and didn't linger there. Instead, I stopped at a gas station on the outskirts of town for some snacks.
As I parked the bike in front of the place, two guys walked by, glanced at me and the bike, and had the following exchange:
First guy: "There's a car for ya!" Second (younger) guy: "No way, I've pedalled enough in my life! I ain't doing it anymore!" (in annoying, whiny tone) First guy: (chuckles and walks away)
I followed the younger guy into the store, where no fewer than three people immediately gave him various forms of grief. He was obviously the local scapegoat/loser. Even I, a total stranger, felt an immediate, visceral dislike for the guy. Something about him just made you want to punch him in the face...
It started to get hillier as I made my way to the campground. Before I got there, I was surprised see another touring cyclist: It was Rick, riding from Maine to Statesboro, Georgia. He warned me about the hills in Connecticut, but just how bad could they be, really? (as it turned out: very bad).
I got to the campground, paid the $10.00 cyclist rate (a pretty good deal for this area, I thought), and bought some overpriced soft drinks. My site was in a wooded area far away from the RVs, which was nice, but also far from the bathrooms and showers. Surprisingly, after the long camping dry spell, I did remember how to set up the tent, and later (for this campground had wireless internet that seemed to work everywhere) had the unusual experience of accessing the internet from inside the tent. Roughing it.
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Today's ride: 77 miles (124 km)
Total: 1,778 miles (2,861 km)
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