May 13, 2008
Day 1: Vilano Beach, FL to Fort Clinch State Park, FL
64.32 miles, 5:15:09 Ride Time, 12.25 Average Speed, 21.7 Maximum Speed
I slept soundly, still tired from the drive down the night before. After a couple of pictures by the ocean, I started riding north on highway A1A. I'd had the usual pre-tour nervousness the night before (why am I doing this? Is this really going to be fun, etc.), but within a few miles I was enjoying the ride on the cloudless, fairly cool morning. I passed by ocean-front homes, many of which seemed nice (but compared to ones I'd see later, not so much). A few had "for sale" signs on them - the least expensive one I saw was $895,000. It might have had 1200 square feet of living space.
The homes were spaced far enough apart that I could see and hear the ocean for most of the ride. Of course, this section along the ocean was almost perfectly flat, and although the wind was in my face from time to time, it was a pleasant ride - it wasn't too hot yet.
I eventually entered the Guana River State Park, where there were few homes or commercial development - although interestingly, there was one gas station/convenience store that had an unobsructed view of the ocean. I went inside to get a snack, where the clerk told me it was actually hard to work inside all day and see the ocean from behind the counter.
So far, I'd been on A1A, which although fairly busy, did have a nice shoulder. Now I turned onto Ponte Vedra Blvd, a less busy road that hugged the coastline. I saw that I'd entered the realm of the (apparently) super-wealthy. These homes (most behind locked gates) surely cost in the tens of millions of dollars. The only people I saw were guys doing work on the ultra-lush landscaping. Because most of the homes were on large lots, and were surrounded by the gates and trees, I no longer had a view of the ocean - what's with these inconsiderate rich people, depriving me of my view?
Eventually the mansions and the elite tennis clubs and golf courses ended, and I entered Neptune Beach and then Atlantic Beach - fairly typical beach towns with hotels, condos, and the usual businesses designed to separate tourists from their money.
I stopped at a public beach access, and decided to stop and actually get in the ocean. I started dragging the loaded bike in the sand, and realized in about a millisecond that it was a mistake - it would have been easier to carry the thing, heavy as it was, then to pull it through the soft sand. I finally got to the water, splashed around in it a little, then lugged the bike back to the street, where I realized I had gotten sand on everything.
By now it was lunch time, so I stopped at a cafe, and ate a turkey sandwich at a table outside. A nice couple came up and asked where I was going; I felt sheepish telling them "Maine", considering that I'd only been riding about 30 miles. The husband was a cyclist, and had several questions about touring; his wife warned me that she was already a "cyclist widow", and to not get her husband interested in bicycle touring. The "business card" (with the CrazyGuyOnABike web address printed on it) I gave them was the first one I handed out on the trip.
I followed a route along quiet residential streets in order to get back to the A1A, which I now found to be a super-busy divided four lane highway. I wimped out and rode on the sidewalk for a while, before turning west and riding out town. It was hot now, and the headwind seemed worse, so it was a relief when I reached the St. John's River, and a ferry ride. The guys there only charged me a dollar, and let me get on first, and get off first.
As the headwind and heat of the afternoon got worse, I rode past a couple of state parks, Little Talbot Island, Amelia Island State Park. It would have been nice to have checked them out, but I wanted to get to my destination for the day.
I went off-route through the beach tourist town of Fernandina Beach, before turning into Fort Clinch State Park, where I'd reserved a campsite ($23!) last week. The campground, near a river, was nice. However, there was no food at all in the park - not even a vending machine. Of course, I didn't realize that until after I'd already set up camp and cleaned up, so it was kind of a bummer to make the seven mile round trip to a gas station outside the park to get some snacks. Also a bummer was eating my sad "meal" while all around me people were grilling hamburgers, hot dogs, fish etc.
My campsite was next to that of three college guys, who were later joined by several of their friends - at one point there were six cars at their site. Predictably, they were making (beer-fueled) noise until late in the evening. As I lay in my tent, I fantasized about murdering them in their sleep - if in fact they ever went to sleep. I did finally get some sleep myself, although it was interrupted once by the girls in the noisy site next door singing a chorus of "We are the champions" (?!)
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Today's ride: 64 miles (103 km)
Total: 64 miles (103 km)
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