September 9, 1997
To Albi
The valley was enveloped in a dense fog this morning but it burned off soon after breakfast. We enjoyed an animated conversation with our host and hostess upon our deparure, as I tried to ascertain whether it was possible to stay close to the river all the way to Albi. The map was unclear on this point, and about 15 hilly kilometers were at stake. It was alternatingly entertaining and alarming to observe them as they mentally worked their way downriver, indicating with distress the hazards ahead - gruesome hills one way, and a unknown obstacle on the other but one which people would be glad to help us with.
Eventually though it became clear that a river route was possible, and we departed - first reclimbing the 3 km to town, and then (unnecessarily, as it happened) dropping down again to the river - only to find a few kilometers later the obstacle they had described - an absolutely black half-mile long one lane tunnel. We got only about 20 meters in when visibility dropped to absolute zero. It dawned on us that they had been trying to tell us that we should flag down a car to light our way - which we eventually did, and experienced a brisk, anxious ride - hoping we would get through before the traffic light changed and cars came the other way on this narrow one-lane passageway.
The remaining miles to Albi were much less eventful, although beautiful and quiet, passing through several attractive villages along the way - Ambialet, with its chateau, church and bridge, was especially lovely. Shortly beyond Ambialet we came across an especially delightful scene - a shepherdess with her dog and flock of sheep. It was quite remarkable watching her control the flock only with her voice and gesticulations.
Albi has a very colorful old town, primarily constructed from brick. Its major feature is the massive 12th century brick gothic cathedral; but two brick, arched bridges over the Tarn and a brick palace housing the Toulouse Lautrec (who was born here) museum give it additional color. After finding our room we visited the museum and cathedral and then crossed the river for another perspective on the town. The cathedral is quite remarkable - austere on the outside, it has a fine interior - each of its many chapels is painted in loverly, patterned pastels, giving it an almost modern feeling. Its massive Last Judgement fresco provides a grim reminder of the beliefs on which this lovely edifice was created.
After our tour of the city was done, we enjoyed dinner at yet another pizzeria - with not only a great new variety of options but also with an unusual gruyere, endive and grapefruit salad as a side-dish.
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Starting with this photo, the rest of the trip's shots unfortunately include a dates tamp (and the wrong date, at that). I apparently changed the setting on the camera and didn't realize this until we got home and developed the film. Another advantage of digitals - you can see what you've got in time to make corrections.
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Today's ride: 44 miles (71 km)
Total: 401 miles (645 km)
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